Yes, repointing a small section of brickwork is something most careful homeowners can tackle safely as a DIY project. The key is using the correct mortar mix, removing the old mortar properly, and working methodically — rushing or using the wrong mix can cause more damage than the original problem.
What Is Repointing and Why Does It Matter?
Repointing (also called pointing or tuckpointing) is the process of removing deteriorated mortar from the joints between bricks and replacing it with fresh mortar. Over time, mortar weathers, cracks, and crumbles — especially in New Zealand's variable climate, where freeze-thaw cycles in colder regions and driving rain on exposed walls can accelerate the process.
Leaving failed mortar unattended allows water to penetrate the wall, which can lead to dampness, efflorescence (white salt staining), and in serious cases, structural damage. The BRANZ building research organisation notes that water ingress through masonry joints is a common cause of moisture problems in older NZ homes.
Is It Safe to DIY?
For a small, localised patch — say, a few cracked or crumbling joints on a garden wall, a fence pier, or a low section of a house wall — DIY repointing is generally safe and practical. However, there are some important caveats:
- Work at height is risky. If the area is above head height and requires a ladder or scaffolding, seriously consider hiring a professional. Falls are a leading cause of serious injury in home DIY. Check WorkSafe NZ guidance on working safely at height before proceeding.
- Structural walls need assessment. If the mortar failure is widespread, or if the wall shows signs of movement, bulging, or cracking in the bricks themselves, stop and get a qualified bricklayer or structural engineer to assess it first.
- Heritage or character bricks need care. Older soft bricks (common in pre-1960s NZ homes) can be permanently damaged by a mortar that is too hard. If in doubt, seek advice.
Tools You'll Need
- Cold chisel and club hammer (or an angle grinder with a mortar-raking disc for larger areas)
- Wire brush
- Pointing trowel or margin trowel
- Bucket and mixing paddle (or a small drill attachment)
- Safety glasses and dust mask (P2 rated minimum — old mortar dust can contain silica)
- Gloves
- Spray bottle with water
Choosing the Right Mortar Mix
This is the most critical part of DIY repointing. Using a mortar that is stronger than the bricks will cause the bricks to crack and spall — the mortar must be slightly weaker than the masonry it holds together so that any movement is absorbed by the joint, not the brick face.
As a general guide for typical NZ clay bricks:
| Brick type | Recommended mix (cement : lime : sand) |
|---|---|
| Modern hard bricks (post-1960s) | 1 : 0.5 : 4.5 |
| Older or softer bricks (pre-1960s) | 1 : 2 : 9 (lime-rich mix) |
| Concrete blocks | 1 : 0.5 : 4.5 |
For small jobs, pre-mixed bagged mortar is convenient and available from Bunnings or Mitre 10. Read the bag carefully — choose a general purpose or bricklaying mortar, not a rapid-set or high-strength product, unless specifically recommended for your situation. PlaceMakers also stocks a range of masonry products and staff can advise on the right product for your bricks.
Step-by-Step Repointing Process
1. Remove the old mortar
Rake out the failed mortar to a depth of at least 15–20 mm using a cold chisel and club hammer. Work carefully to avoid chipping the brick edges. Brush out all loose debris with a wire brush.
2. Dampen the joints
Lightly mist the joints with water before applying new mortar. This prevents the dry brick from drawing moisture out of the fresh mortar too quickly, which weakens the bond.
3. Mix your mortar
Mix to a firm but workable consistency — it should hold its shape when squeezed but not be sloppy. Mix only what you can use in about 30–45 minutes.
4. Apply the mortar
Press mortar firmly into the joint using a pointing trowel, working in layers if the joint is deep. Slightly overfill, then finish flush or with a slight concave profile (a weatherstruck or bucket-handle finish sheds water well on exposed walls).
5. Cure and clean up
Keep the new mortar slightly damp for the first day or two, especially in hot or windy weather. Once firm but not fully set, brush off any smears with a damp sponge. Avoid washing down with acid cleaners on fresh mortar.
Building Consent Considerations
Routine maintenance repointing of existing brickwork does not generally require a building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004. However, if you are rebuilding or significantly altering a structural masonry wall, consent may be required. Always confirm with your local council if you are unsure — rules can vary. See MBIE Building Performance for general guidance on consent exemptions.
When to Call a Professional
Call a qualified bricklayer if:
- The area of failed mortar is large or widespread across the wall
- The work is above safe ladder height
- Bricks are cracked, spalling, or the wall is showing movement
- You are dealing with a heritage or character home with soft, handmade bricks
- You are unsure of the correct mortar specification
A skilled bricklayer will also be able to match the colour and profile of existing joints far more closely than most DIYers can achieve. You can find qualified local bricklayers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
