Replacing a single broken asphalt shingle is generally something a capable DIYer can tackle without a building consent, as minor like-for-like roofing repairs typically fall under Schedule 1 exemptions of the Building Act — though you should always confirm this with your local council before starting work. That said, working at height carries real risk, and if your roof is steep, high, or you're not confident, calling a qualified roofer is the smart move.
Is Asphalt Shingle Common in NZ?
Asphalt (or bitumen) shingles are less common in New Zealand than in North America, but they are used here — particularly on lower-pitched roofs and in some residential developments. They're sometimes called fibreglass shingles or bitumen shingles. Before buying a replacement, confirm your roof is actually asphalt shingle and not a similar-looking product like pressed metal tiles or a membrane system, as the repair method differs significantly.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
For a straightforward like-for-like replacement of a single damaged shingle, this is generally considered routine maintenance and is likely exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004. However, exemptions have conditions, and rules can vary. Always check with your local council before proceeding. You can find useful guidance on what requires consent at MBIE Building Performance.
Safety First — Working at Height
Roof work is one of the leading causes of serious injury in New Zealand. Before you climb up:
- Never work on a wet, frosty, or windy day — asphalt shingles become slippery.
- Use a roof ladder or chicken ladder hooked over the ridge to spread your weight and give you something to hold.
- Set up a safety harness and anchor point if your roof pitch is steep or the eave height is significant.
- Have a second person on the ground at all times.
- Review WorkSafe NZ guidelines on working at height before you start.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Replacement asphalt shingle (matching colour, profile, and weight — take a photo or a sample to your supplier)
- Flat pry bar or shingle remover tool
- Hammer
- Roofing nails (galvanised, appropriate length)
- Roofing sealant or bitumen adhesive
- Utility knife
- Chalk line (optional)
- Safety gear: harness, non-slip boots, gloves
You can source roofing nails, sealant, and tools from Bunnings or Mitre 10. For the shingle itself, contact a roofing merchant or PlaceMakers — matching the existing product is important for both weathertightness and appearance.
Step-by-Step: Replacing a Single Shingle
1. Assess the Damage
Before heading up, inspect from the ground with binoculars if possible. Check whether it's just one shingle or whether surrounding shingles, the underlayment, or the decking beneath are also damaged. Water staining inside the ceiling can indicate the damage is more extensive than it looks.
2. Lift the Surrounding Shingles
Asphalt shingles overlap and are nailed through multiple layers. Carefully slide your pry bar under the shingle above the damaged one and gently lift it to expose the nails holding the broken shingle in place. Shingles also have a self-sealing adhesive strip — work slowly to avoid cracking neighbouring shingles, especially in cold weather.
3. Remove the Damaged Shingle
Once the nails are exposed, pull them out with the pry bar. Slide the broken shingle out carefully.
4. Check the Underlayment
With the shingle removed, inspect the roofing underlayment (the felt or synthetic membrane beneath). If it's torn or saturated, patch it with compatible underlayment tape or a small piece of new underlayment before proceeding. Persistent moisture here can indicate a deeper issue worth investigating.
5. Slide in the New Shingle
Slide the replacement shingle into position, aligning it with the surrounding shingles. Nail it in place using galvanised roofing nails — typically four nails per shingle, positioned just above the adhesive strip. Don't overdrive the nails; the head should sit flush, not punching through the shingle.
6. Seal and Press Down
Apply a small dab of roofing sealant under the corners of the overlapping shingles above, then press them back down firmly. This reactivates the bond and restores weathertightness. Sika produces compatible roofing sealants available at most trade and hardware stores.
7. Inspect Your Work
Step back (carefully) and check the alignment. All shingle edges should overlap correctly with no gaps. Check again after the next rain to confirm there's no leaking.
Matching Your Existing Shingles
This can be the trickiest part. Shingles fade over time, so a brand-new shingle may look noticeably different from your weathered roof. If appearance matters, check whether you have any leftover shingles from the original installation stored in your garage or roof space — many builders leave offcuts for exactly this reason.
When to Call a Professional
Call a licensed roofer if:
- The damage covers more than a couple of shingles
- You can see damage to the roof decking or underlayment
- There is interior water damage or mould
- Your roof pitch is steep or the eave height makes safe access difficult
- You're unsure about matching the existing product
- The roof is still under a builder's warranty (DIY repairs may void it)
A qualified roofer can also identify whether the damage is a symptom of a wider issue — such as poor flashing, blocked gutters, or end-of-life shingles across the whole roof. You can find experienced local roofers on tradedirectory.co.nz.





Roofing Association of NZ (RANZ)
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)


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