Yes, in most cases you can safely remove epicormic shoots (also called water sprouts or suckers) from your tree trunk yourself — no specialist licence is required for this type of basic pruning. That said, doing it correctly and at the right time makes a real difference to your tree's long-term health and appearance.
What Are Epicormic Shoots?
Epicormic shoots are fast-growing, vigorous stems that sprout directly from dormant buds beneath the bark of a tree's trunk or main branches. They're often a sign that the tree is under stress — triggered by heavy pruning, root damage, drought, disease, or physical injury. Common culprits in NZ gardens include pohutukawa, liquidambar, ornamental cherries, and many fruit trees.
Because they grow rapidly and draw energy away from the tree's main canopy, epicormic shoots are generally best removed — but timing and technique matter.
Is It Safe for a Homeowner to Do?
For shoots on the lower trunk that you can reach safely from the ground, this is straightforward DIY work. You don't need a building consent, a licence, or any specialist qualification to prune small growth from your own trees (provided the tree isn't subject to a Notable Tree schedule or Resource Consent condition under your local council's district plan — always check with your council first).
If shoots are high up the trunk and require a ladder, chainsaw, or working near power lines, stop and call a qualified arborist. Working at height carries serious risk, and working near lines is governed by WorkSafe NZ regulations that require a minimum safe approach distance.
Tools You'll Need
- Sharp hand pruners (secateurs) for shoots up to about 10–12 mm diameter
- Loppers for slightly thicker growth
- Pruning saw for anything larger
- Isopropyl alcohol or methylated spirits to sterilise blades between trees (reduces disease spread)
- Gloves and safety glasses
Avoid using blunt tools — they crush tissue rather than cutting cleanly, leaving ragged wounds that are slower to compartmentalise.
When to Remove Epicormic Shoots
The best time to remove epicormic shoots in New Zealand is generally late winter to early spring, just before the main flush of growth. This timing:
- Minimises the window for fungal infection entering the wound
- Allows the tree to compartmentalise the wound quickly as growth resumes
- Reduces the energy the tree has already invested in the shoot
You can also remove them in summer once they've hardened slightly, which can reduce the rate of regrowth. Avoid heavy pruning in autumn, as wounds heal more slowly heading into winter.
How to Remove Epicormic Shoots Correctly
Step 1 — Sterilise your tools
Wipe blades with isopropyl alcohol or methylated spirits before starting and between trees to avoid spreading pathogens.
Step 2 — Cut flush, not proud
Remove the shoot as close to the trunk as possible without cutting into the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where the shoot meets the trunk). Leaving a stub encourages regrowth and can harbour disease. Cutting into the collar damages the tree's natural wound-sealing tissue.
Step 3 — Rub out young shoots by hand
If you catch epicormic shoots when they're very young and soft (just a few centimetres long), you can simply rub them off with your thumb. This is the most effective long-term method because it removes the bud tissue, reducing the chance of regrowth.
Step 4 — Don't use wound sealant
Modern arboricultural practice — supported by research — advises against applying wound paint or sealant. It can trap moisture and pathogens. Let the tree seal itself naturally.
Step 5 — Dispose of material carefully
If your tree has any known disease issues, bag and bin the prunings rather than composting them.
Why Do Epicormic Shoots Keep Coming Back?
If you're constantly battling regrowth, the underlying stress trigger hasn't been resolved. Common causes in NZ include:
- Over-pruning — removing too much canopy at once (more than about 20–25% in a single season is generally considered excessive)
- Root zone compaction — from vehicles, construction, or heavy foot traffic
- Drought stress — particularly relevant in drier regions like Hawke's Bay, Canterbury, and Central Otago
- Soil nutrient imbalance — a soil test can help identify this
Addressing the root cause is the most effective long-term solution.
Notable Trees and Protected Species
Before pruning any tree, check whether it's listed on your local council's Notable Tree Register or protected under a Resource Consent condition. Pruning a protected tree without consent can result in significant fines. Your local council's planning or resource consents team can advise you — this is a quick phone call or website check worth making.
When to Call a Professional
Call a qualified arborist if:
- Shoots are high on the trunk and require working at height
- The tree is large, structurally compromised, or showing signs of disease or decay
- The tree is near power lines (contact your lines company and an arborist — this is not DIY territory)
- You're unsure whether the tree is protected under your district plan
- Epicormic growth is severe and widespread, suggesting significant underlying stress
A qualified arborist can assess the tree's overall health, identify stress triggers, and carry out any higher-risk work safely. You can find experienced local arborists on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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