Can I Lay a Brick Garden Path Yourself on a Budget?

Laying a brick garden path is one of the more achievable DIY projects for a motivated homeowner — no building consent is typically required for a simple garden path, and with the right preparation it can look great and last for years. That said, the key to a long-lasting result is in the groundwork, not just the bricks on top.

What You'll Need

Before you start, gather your materials and tools. Here's a basic checklist:

• Bricks or pavers – Reclaimed bricks are a budget-friendly option; check local salvage yards or online marketplaces. New clay or concrete pavers are available at Bunnings or Mitre 10.
• Compactable gravel or AP20 basecourse – For the sub-base layer
• Coarse bedding sand – For the setting bed (not fine beach sand)
• Edging – Timber, steel, or brick soldiers to hold the path in place
• String lines and pegs – For alignment
• Rubber mallet and spirit level
• Plate compactor – Hire one from a local hire centre; this is worth doing properly
• Broom and kiln-dried jointing sand – For finishing

As a rough guide, budget materials for a simple path can start from a few hundred dollars depending on length, width, and brick choice. Reclaimed bricks can significantly reduce costs.

Planning Your Path

Mark out your path with string lines before you dig. Consider:

• Width – A comfortable single-person path is around 900 mm; allow 1.2 m or more if you want two people to pass.
• Falls (drainage) – Aim for a cross-fall of around 1–2% (10–20 mm per metre) so water drains off the path rather than pooling. This is especially important in wetter NZ regions.
• Pattern – Stretcher bond (bricks laid end to end) is the easiest for beginners. Herringbone is more complex but very stable underfoot.
• Edging – Always install edging first to contain your base and sand layers.

Preparing the Base — The Most Important Step

A solid, well-compacted base is what separates a path that lasts from one that sinks and shifts within a season.

1. Excavate to a depth of around 150–200 mm below your finished surface level.
2. Compact the subgrade — use a plate compactor or hand tamper.
3. Lay 100 mm of compactable gravel (AP20 basecourse) and compact in layers. Don't skip this step.
4. Add 30–40 mm of coarse bedding sand — screed it level using timber rails as guides.

In areas with heavy clay soils (common across many parts of NZ), consider laying a geotextile fabric between the subgrade and gravel to prevent the clay from migrating up into your base over time.

Laying the Bricks

1. Start from a fixed edge or a straight line and work outward.
2. Place bricks firmly into the sand bed — do not slide them, press them straight down.
3. Use a rubber mallet and spirit level to keep everything flat and even.
4. Maintain consistent joint gaps of around 2–3 mm using spacers if needed.
5. Once all bricks are laid, run the plate compactor over the surface (with a rubber pad or piece of carpet to protect the brick faces).
6. Spread kiln-dried jointing sand over the surface and sweep it into the joints. Compact again, then repeat until joints are full.

Choosing the Right Bricks

Not all bricks are suitable for paving. Look for:

• Pavers rated for external/paving use — these are denser and more frost-resistant than standard wall bricks
• Reclaimed bricks — check they're solid (not hollow) and in good condition with no major spalling

If you're unsure, ask at your local PlaceMakers branch or brick supplier for advice on suitable products for your region and climate.

Do You Need a Building Consent?

For a simple garden path at ground level, a building consent is generally not required under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004. However, rules can vary — for example, if your path is near a boundary, retaining structure, or involves drainage works. Always check with your local council before starting to confirm your specific situation. You can find general guidance at MBIE Building Performance.

Tips for Keeping Costs Down

When to Call a Professional

While a garden path is DIY-friendly, there are situations where it's worth getting a qualified bricklayer or paving contractor involved:

• The path is on a significant slope and drainage is complex
• You want a large area, intricate pattern, or mortar-set finish
• The ground conditions are poor (very soft, waterlogged, or fill material)
• You're not confident with levelling and compaction

A professional will get the base right first time and can save you from costly relaying down the track. You can find experienced local bricklayers and paving contractors on tradedirectory.co.nz.

Safety note: When cutting bricks with an angle grinder or saw, always wear eye protection, hearing protection, and a P2 dust mask. Brick dust contains silica, which is a serious respiratory hazard. Check safe work practices at WorkSafe NZ.

Sources & Further Reading

• MBIE Building Performance – Schedule 1 exemptions
• BRANZ – Build magazine and technical guidance
• WorkSafe NZ – Silica dust safety
• Bunnings – Pavers and paving materials
• Mitre 10 – Landscaping and paving supplies
• PlaceMakers – Building and landscaping materials