Yes, in most cases a homeowner can lay a brick driveway apron at the entrance to their garage — it's a satisfying project that adds real kerb appeal and durability. That said, getting the groundwork right, managing drainage correctly, and checking whether a building consent is needed are all essential steps before you mix a single batch of mortar.
What Is a Driveway Apron?
A driveway apron is the paved section that connects your driveway to the road or garage floor — typically the last 1–3 metres before the garage door. It takes a lot of traffic stress, so it needs a solid base and well-chosen materials. Clay or concrete pavers are both popular choices in New Zealand, with clay bricks offering a classic look and good longevity in our variable climate.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
This is the first question to answer before you start. In New Zealand, many minor external works are exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004, but the rules depend on your specific situation. Key things to check:
- Proximity to boundaries and stormwater drains — work that affects drainage or sits close to a boundary may require consent.
- Council district plan rules — some councils have rules about impervious surfaces and stormwater runoff, particularly in flood-prone or high-rainfall areas.
- Connection to the road reserve — if your apron extends onto the road reserve or kerb, you'll likely need a road opening permit from your local council, separate from a building consent.
Always confirm with your local council before starting. You can find general guidance on consent exemptions at MBIE Building Performance.
Planning for Drainage
Poor drainage is the number-one cause of driveway apron failure in NZ. Water that pools or runs back toward the garage can cause:
- Flooding inside the garage
- Undermining of the base course
- Frost heave in colder South Island regions
Your apron should have a minimum 1–2% fall (roughly 10–20 mm per metre) away from the garage and toward a legal stormwater outlet — never toward a neighbour's property. If you're in an area with heavy rainfall, consider a channel drain (also called a slot drain) across the apron entrance. Check that any new impervious surface complies with your council's stormwater rules, which are often tied to the NZ Building Code clause E1 (Surface Water).
Choosing Your Bricks and Materials
For a driveway apron, you need pavers rated for vehicular traffic — not standard house bricks, which can crack under the weight of a car. Look for:
- Clay pavers — dense, durable, and fade-resistant. Popular NZ brands are available through Bunnings and Mitre 10, or through specialist brick suppliers.
- Concrete pavers — a cost-effective alternative, widely available at PlaceMakers.
- Bedding sand — coarse, washed river sand (not beach sand) for a flexible lay, or a mortar bed for a rigid lay.
- Edge restraints — essential to stop pavers spreading over time.
Step-by-Step: Laying a Brick Driveway Apron
1. Mark Out and Excavate
Mark your apron area with pegs and string lines. Excavate to a depth of at least 200–250 mm to allow for:
- 150 mm compacted AP20 (aggregate) base
- 30–40 mm bedding sand or mortar
- Paver thickness (typically 60–80 mm for vehicular pavers)
2. Compact the Sub-base
Hire a plate compactor and compact the sub-grade soil thoroughly. Add your AP20 base in 100 mm layers, compacting each layer. A solid base is everything — skimping here leads to sinking and cracking.
3. Set Your Falls and Edge Restraints
Install edge restraints (concrete haunching or proprietary plastic edging) before laying. Set your string lines to achieve the correct drainage fall.
4. Lay the Bedding Course
For a flexible lay (recommended for DIY), screed a 30–40 mm layer of coarse bedding sand to your fall lines. For a rigid (mortar) lay, use a 1:4 cement:sand mix — this is harder to get right but gives a firmer result.
5. Lay the Pavers
Start from a fixed edge and work outward. Use a rubber mallet to bed each paver firmly. Check levels constantly with a spirit level and string line. Cut pavers with an angle grinder fitted with a diamond blade, or hire a brick saw.
6. Compact and Fill Joints
Once all pavers are laid, run the plate compactor over them (with a rubber pad to protect the surface). Sweep jointing sand into the gaps and compact again. Repeat until joints are full.
7. Seal (Optional)
A penetrating paver sealer can help protect clay or concrete pavers from oil stains and weathering. Ask at your local paint or hardware store for a product suited to your paver type.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Insufficient base depth — the most common cause of failure
- No edge restraints — pavers will spread and lift
- Wrong fall direction — water running into the garage
- Using non-vehicular pavers — they'll crack under car weight
- Ignoring council rules — can result in costly remediation
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified bricklayer or paving contractor if:
- The area is large or has complex levels and drainage requirements
- You need to tie into existing concrete or asphalt
- A channel drain needs to connect to your stormwater system (this may involve restricted plumbing/drainlaying work requiring a licensed tradesperson — check with the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board)
- You're unsure about consent requirements
- The ground is unstable, on a slope, or has poor drainage
A skilled local bricklayer will get the base, falls, and jointing right first time. You can find qualified paving and bricklaying tradespeople in your area on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
