Yes, installing a pegboard insert inside a deep drawer is a project most handy homeowners can do themselves — no building consent is required, no licensed trades are involved, and the results can be genuinely transformative for kitchen, workshop, or craft storage. Here's everything you need to know to get it right first time.
What Is a Pegboard Drawer Insert?
A pegboard drawer insert is a sheet of perforated hardboard (or sometimes MDF or plywood) that sits inside a deep drawer, raised slightly off the base on a frame or feet. Short pegs or dowels slot into the holes, creating a fully customisable grid of dividers that hold utensils, tools, or craft supplies upright and organised. Because the pegs are removable, you can reconfigure the layout whenever your needs change.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Pegboard sheet — standard 6 mm hardboard pegboard is widely available at Bunnings and Mitre 10. Choose 3 mm if your drawer is shallow.
- Timber for the riser frame — 12–18 mm square pine or MDF strip works well. This lifts the pegboard so pegs have room to protrude underneath.
- Pegs or dowels — purpose-made plastic pegboard pegs, or 6 mm timber dowel cut to length.
- Tape measure, pencil, and square
- Jigsaw or circular saw (or ask your timber merchant to cut the sheet to size)
- Sandpaper — 120 and 180 grit
- PVA wood glue or construction adhesive (e.g. Sika SikaBond range)
- Clamps or masking tape for glue-up
- Optional: spray paint or clear sealer to finish the pegboard
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
1. Measure the Drawer Interior
Measure the internal width and depth of the drawer box — not the face. Subtract 2–3 mm from each dimension so the insert slides in and out easily without binding. Write these measurements down before you cut anything.
2. Cut the Pegboard to Size
Mark your cut lines clearly with a pencil and straight edge. Cut with a jigsaw fitted with a fine-tooth blade to minimise tear-out. Wear eye protection and a dust mask — hardboard dust is fine and irritating. Sand all edges smooth with 120-grit paper, then finish with 180-grit.
3. Build the Riser Frame
Cut four strips of timber to form a simple rectangular frame that sits between the drawer base and the underside of the pegboard. The frame height should be at least 20–25 mm — enough for peg shanks to pass through and for air to circulate. Glue the corners together, check they're square, and allow to cure fully before the next step.
4. Attach the Pegboard to the Frame
Run a thin bead of PVA or construction adhesive around the top edge of the riser frame, then lay the pegboard on top. Clamp or weight it down and leave overnight. Once cured, the assembly should feel solid and rigid.
5. Fit the Insert into the Drawer
Drop the finished insert into the drawer. It should sit flat and slide in and out without catching. If it's too snug, sand the edges a little more. If it's loose, small rubber feet or adhesive foam strips on the underside of the frame will stop it shifting.
6. Add Your Pegs and Organise
Insert pegs into the holes in whatever pattern suits your utensils or tools. Plastic pegboard pegs from hardware stores are inexpensive and come in various lengths. Alternatively, cut 6 mm timber dowel into 60–80 mm lengths for a more natural look.
Finishing Tips for a Professional Result
- Paint or seal the pegboard before assembly if you want a clean look. Resene and Dulux both offer water-based primers and topcoats suitable for hardboard. Lightly sand between coats.
- In damp areas like under-sink drawers, use moisture-resistant MDF or seal the pegboard thoroughly to prevent swelling.
- If the drawer is very deep (over 200 mm), consider a two-tier insert — a second pegboard layer on taller risers — to make full use of the vertical space.
- Label zones with a paint pen or small adhesive labels so everyone in the household knows where things go.
Cost Guide (Approximate)
| Item | Rough NZ cost (as a guide only) |
|---|---|
| Pegboard sheet (600 × 900 mm) | $10–$20 |
| Timber riser strips | $5–$15 |
| Pegboard pegs (pack) | $5–$15 |
| Adhesive / sandpaper | $5–$10 |
| Total | $25–$60 |
Prices vary by supplier and region — check current pricing at your local store.
When to Call a Professional
For a basic pegboard insert, you almost certainly won't need a tradesperson. However, consider calling a qualified cabinet maker if:
- You want a custom-built insert from solid timber or premium materials that perfectly matches your cabinetry.
- The drawer box itself is damaged, out of square, or the drawer slides need replacing — a cabinet maker or joiner can assess and repair these properly.
- You're fitting inserts across an entire kitchen renovation and want a consistent, high-end result.
You can find experienced local cabinet makers and joiners on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Safety note: This project involves no electrical, plumbing, or gas work, so there are no restricted-work requirements. However, always use appropriate PPE (safety glasses, dust mask) when cutting and sanding hardboard or MDF, and work in a well-ventilated space. For guidance on safe DIY practices, WorkSafe NZ has useful resources.
