Installing a glass splashback can transform your kitchen, but whether you can do it yourself depends on a few important factors — particularly whether the splashback sits behind a cooktop or near any electrical fittings. Some parts of the job are well within a capable DIYer's reach, while others are legally restricted work in New Zealand.
Understanding the Risks and Restrictions
The biggest consideration with kitchen splashbacks is their proximity to powerpoints, rangehood wiring, and gas cooktops. Any work that involves moving, isolating, or reconnecting electrical wiring is restricted electrical work under the Electricity Act 1992 and must be carried out by a registered electrician. You can check what qualifies as restricted work through the Electrical Workers Registration Board (EWRB).
Similarly, if your splashback is going behind a gas cooktop, any disconnection or reconnection of gas fittings must be done by a licensed gasfitter registered with the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board (PGDB).
Safety note: Never attempt to work on live electrical circuits or gas connections yourself. Doing so is illegal, dangerous, and could void your home insurance.
What Type of Glass Must Be Used?
Kitchen splashbacks must use toughened (tempered) safety glass — this is a requirement under the NZ Building Code, specifically Clause F4 (Safety from Falling) and general safety glazing standards. Standard float glass is not acceptable in this application. Toughened glass is manufactured to order and cannot be cut on-site, so your measurements need to be accurate before you order.
For areas near a cooktop, the glass also needs to be rated to handle heat. Always check with your glass supplier that the product is suitable for use behind a cooking appliance. BRANZ is a good resource for understanding building material performance requirements in NZ conditions.
Does It Need a Building Consent?
In most cases, replacing or installing a kitchen splashback is considered exempt building work under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004 — meaning no building consent is required. However, this depends on the scope of work. If structural changes are involved, or if the work affects weathertightness or fire separation, consent may be needed. Always confirm with your local council before starting, as exemptions can vary.
You can find guidance on consent exemptions at MBIE Building Performance.
What a DIYer Can Reasonably Do
If your splashback area is straightforward — no powerpoints to move, no gas connections to shift — a competent DIYer can handle the installation itself. Here's a general overview of the process:
1. Measure Carefully
- Measure the wall area precisely, accounting for any outlets, switches, or penetrations.
- Toughened glass is made to your exact dimensions, so double-check before ordering.
- Allow for any required clearance around powerpoints (your electrician can advise).
2. Prepare the Wall Surface
- The wall behind the glass must be smooth, clean, dry, and flat.
- Plasterboard (GIB) is a common substrate — ensure it is primed and painted (or use a moisture-resistant board in wet-adjacent areas).
- Many installers paint the wall behind the glass in a feature colour, since the glass is transparent or translucent. Resene and Dulux both offer suitable interior paints for this purpose.
3. Apply Adhesive
- Use a neutral-cure silicone or a purpose-made panel adhesive suitable for glass and your wall substrate. Avoid acetoxy (acidic) silicones near metal fixings as they can cause corrosion.
- Apply adhesive in a series of dots or beads across the back of the glass panel, following the manufacturer's instructions.
- Sika offers a range of construction adhesives and silicones suitable for this application.
4. Position and Secure the Glass
- With a helper, carefully lift the panel into position.
- Use temporary packers or suction cups to hold the glass while the adhesive cures.
- Ensure the panel is level and flush with adjacent surfaces.
- Finish edges with a matching silicone bead for a clean, waterproof seal.
5. Allow Full Cure Time
- Follow the adhesive manufacturer's cure time before exposing the splashback to moisture or heat — typically 24–48 hours.
Key Considerations at a Glance
| Factor | DIY Possible? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Wall prep and painting | Yes | Ensure surface is flat and dry |
| Measuring and ordering glass | Yes | Must be toughened safety glass |
| Adhesive application and fitting | Yes | Use correct silicone/adhesive |
| Moving or isolating powerpoints | No | Restricted electrical work |
| Gas cooktop disconnection | No | Restricted gasfitting work |
| Building consent | Check with council | Usually exempt under Schedule 1 |
When to Call a Professional
You should engage a licensed glazier if:
- The panel is large, heavy, or awkwardly shaped
- You're unsure about the correct adhesive or substrate compatibility
- The installation involves curved walls or complex cutouts
You must engage a registered electrician before installation if any powerpoints, switches, or wiring need to be moved or isolated. Similarly, use a licensed gasfitter if gas appliances are involved.
For peace of mind and a quality finish, many homeowners choose to have a professional glazier handle the full installation. You can find qualified local glaziers and other tradespeople on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Window & Glass Association
