Yes, fitting a new magnetic catch to a cabinet door is well within the reach of most homeowners. It requires no special licences, no building consent, and only a handful of basic tools. Whether you're replacing a worn-out catch in the kitchen or fitting one to a new cabinet in the laundry, this is a satisfying, low-risk DIY task you can complete in under half an hour.
What Is a Magnetic Catch?
A magnetic catch consists of two parts: a magnet body (usually screwed to the cabinet frame or shelf) and a metal strike plate (screwed to the inside of the door). When the door closes, the strike plate is drawn to the magnet, holding the door shut without a latch or handle mechanism. They're commonly used on kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, wardrobe doors, and laundry cupboards throughout New Zealand homes.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Magnetic catch kit (magnet body + strike plate + screws — usually supplied together)
- Screwdriver (hand or cordless drill with a screwdriver bit)
- Pencil or marking awl
- Tape measure or ruler
- Small square (optional but helpful)
- Bradawl or small drill bit (for pilot holes in timber)
Magnetic catches are widely available at Bunnings and Mitre 10 in a range of strengths — light-duty for small doors, heavy-duty for larger or heavier panels. As a rough guide, budget anywhere from a couple of dollars for a basic plastic-bodied catch up to around $10–$15 for a heavy-duty metal version.
Step-by-Step: Fitting a Magnetic Catch
1. Remove the Old Catch
Unscrew the existing magnet body from the cabinet frame and the strike plate from the door. Fill any oversized or stripped screw holes with a dab of wood filler and allow it to dry if you're repositioning the new catch.
2. Position the Magnet Body
Hold the magnet body against the cabinet frame (or a fixed shelf) where the door will close against it. Typically this is near the top or bottom corner of the door opening. Most catches have slotted mounting holes so you can adjust the depth slightly after fitting — handy for getting a firm but not overly stiff closure.
Mark the screw hole positions lightly with a pencil.
3. Drill Pilot Holes
Using a bradawl or a small drill bit (usually 2–2.5 mm for standard timber cabinet frames), make shallow pilot holes at your marks. This prevents the timber from splitting and makes driving screws much easier, especially in MDF or particleboard carcasses common in flat-pack cabinetry.
Tip: If your cabinet is MDF or particleboard, avoid overtightening screws — these materials can strip easily. Drive screws firmly but stop as soon as resistance is felt.
4. Screw the Magnet Body in Place
Fasten the magnet body with the screws provided. Leave it very slightly loose if the catch has adjustment slots — you can fine-tune the position in the next step.
5. Position the Strike Plate
Close the door gently against the magnet. The magnet will often hold the strike plate in position temporarily. Open the door carefully, and you'll see where the strike plate has self-aligned. Mark those screw positions on the door, drill pilot holes, and screw the strike plate in place.
Alternatively, some installers stick a small piece of double-sided tape to the strike plate, press the door closed, then open it to reveal the exact position before screwing.
6. Test and Adjust
Open and close the door several times. The door should close with a satisfying click and hold firmly without rattling. If the hold is too weak, slide the magnet body slightly forward (towards the door) using the adjustment slots. If the door is hard to open, move it back slightly.
Common Issues and How to Fix Them
| Problem | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Door doesn't hold shut | Strike plate misaligned or magnet too far back | Adjust magnet body forward or reposition strike plate |
| Door rattles when closed | Magnet hold too weak or door warped | Try a stronger catch or add a second catch |
| Screws won't grip | Stripped holes in MDF/particleboard | Use slightly larger screws or fill holes with toothpicks and PVA glue |
| Door hard to pull open | Magnet too strong or too close | Move magnet body back slightly |
Tips for Flat-Pack and Older NZ Cabinets
Many New Zealand kitchens feature flat-pack cabinetry with particleboard or MDF carcasses. These materials hold screws less firmly than solid timber, so always use pilot holes and avoid overtightening. If you're working on older native timber cabinetry — rimu or kauri are common in older NZ homes — the timber is generally very hard and pilot holes are especially important to avoid splitting.
For overlay doors (where the door sits over the frame rather than inside it), you may need a surface-mounted or angled catch rather than a standard inline one. Check the catch packaging or ask in-store.
When to Call a Professional
Fitting a magnetic catch is not restricted work under New Zealand law — no licence or consent is required. However, if your cabinet job is part of a larger kitchen renovation involving new cabinetry installation, electrical work (such as under-cabinet lighting), or plumbing alterations, those elements must be handled by appropriately licensed tradespeople. Electrical work is restricted work under the Electrical Workers Registration Board (EWRB), and plumbing is regulated by the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board (PGDB).
If you're unsure about the condition of your cabinet frames, or if doors are warped or hinges are failing, a qualified joiner can assess and repair the underlying issue properly. You can find experienced local joiners and cabinet makers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
