Yes, in most cases you can drill into brick yourself to mount a TV bracket or shelving — it's one of the more achievable DIY jobs around the home. That said, success depends on using the right drill, the correct fixings, and a bit of know-how. Get those things wrong and you risk cracked bricks, loose fittings, or a TV on the floor.
What You'll Need Before You Start
Gathering the right gear makes all the difference. Here's what you'll need:
- Rotary hammer drill (SDS drill) — a standard cordless drill won't cut it for brick. A hammer drill or SDS drill is essential. These are available to hire from most tool hire shops if you don't own one.
- Masonry drill bits — look for carbide-tipped bits sized to match your wall plugs (commonly 6 mm, 8 mm, or 10 mm).
- Wall plugs and screws — use plugs rated for masonry. For heavier loads like a TV bracket, consider sleeve anchors or chemical anchors rather than standard plastic plugs.
- Spirit level — to keep your bracket straight.
- Pencil and tape measure — mark your hole positions carefully before drilling.
- Safety glasses and dust mask — brick dust is an irritant and can contain silica. WorkSafe NZ recommends respiratory protection when working with masonry.
- Stud finder or cable/pipe detector — critical before you drill anywhere near internal walls or chases.
Step-by-Step: How to Drill Into Brick
1. Check What's Behind the Wall
Before you drill a single hole, use a cable and pipe detector to scan the area. Electrical cables and water pipes are sometimes run through or behind brick walls, particularly in older NZ homes. Hitting a live cable is extremely dangerous. If you're unsure, stop and get advice.
2. Choose Your Spot — Brick or Mortar?
You can drill into either the brick face or the mortar joint. For structural fixings like TV brackets, drilling into the brick itself gives a stronger hold. Mortar is softer and more likely to crumble under load. Avoid drilling right at the edge of a brick where it may crack.
3. Mark and Punch Your Holes
Mark your drill positions with a pencil. Use a centre punch or a nail to create a small indent — this stops the drill bit from wandering when you start.
4. Drill at the Right Speed and Depth
Set your hammer drill to hammer mode and use a steady, moderate speed. Let the drill do the work — don't force it. Drill to the depth of your wall plug plus a few extra millimetres (most plugs are 40–50 mm long). Use the depth stop on your drill if it has one, or wrap masking tape around the bit as a depth guide.
5. Clear the Dust and Insert Fixings
Blow or vacuum out the dust from each hole before inserting plugs — dust left in the hole reduces fixing strength. Tap plugs in flush with a hammer, then drive your screws in firmly.
6. Test Before You Load It Up
Give the bracket a firm tug before hanging anything on it. For a TV bracket, check the manufacturer's weight rating and make sure your fixings exceed it.
Choosing the Right Fixings for the Load
| Load Type | Recommended Fixing |
|---|---|
| Light shelving (books, ornaments) | Standard plastic wall plug + screw |
| Medium shelving or picture rails | Nylon frame plug or metal sleeve anchor |
| TV bracket (up to ~30 kg) | Sleeve anchor or heavy-duty frame plug |
| Large TV or very heavy shelving | Chemical anchor (resin anchor) |
Chemical anchors (sometimes called resin anchors) are the gold standard for heavy loads. Brands like Sika and Ardex offer masonry anchor systems. Follow the manufacturer's cure time before loading.
You'll find a good range of masonry fixings and drill bits at Bunnings or Mitre 10.
NZ-Specific Considerations
Most NZ homes built before the 1980s used double-brick or brick-veneer construction. Brick veneer (a single skin of brick over a timber frame) is very common — in this case, your fixing only has the brick skin to grip, so the depth and type of fixing matters even more. If you're not sure of your wall construction, a local bricklayer or builder can advise.
Drilling into brick for shelving or a TV bracket does not require a building consent under the NZ Building Code — it's considered minor maintenance work. However, if you're making structural changes or penetrating a fire-rated wall, always check with your local council first. The MBIE Building Performance website has useful guidance on what work requires consent.
Safety Notes
- Silica dust from brick and mortar is a serious health hazard with repeated exposure. Always wear a P2 dust mask and safety glasses.
- Never drill without checking for cables and pipes first. Electrical work is restricted work under NZ law — only a registered electrician can carry out wiring repairs. See the Electrical Workers Registration Board for more information.
- If you hit a water pipe, turn off the mains immediately and call a licensed plumber. Plumbing work is regulated by the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board.
When to Call a Professional
While drilling into brick is DIY-friendly, there are times when it pays to bring in a qualified bricklayer or builder:
- You're unsure of your wall construction or the condition of the brickwork (older or damaged bricks crack easily).
- You need to mount something very heavy — a large commercial TV, heavy cabinetry, or a wall-mounted fireplace.
- The brick is heritage or decorative and you want to avoid visible damage.
- You've hit unexpected resistance, hollow spots, or the brick is crumbling.
A skilled bricklayer will have the right tools and experience to get the job done safely and cleanly. You can find qualified local bricklayers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
