Yes, you can absolutely build a lapped paling fence without a nail gun in New Zealand. A hammer and galvanised nails have been the traditional method for decades, and with the right preparation and technique, you'll end up with a sturdy, good-looking fence. Here's everything you need to know before you start.
What Is a Lapped Paling Fence?
A lapped paling fence (sometimes called a lapped or overlapping paling fence) uses vertical timber palings that alternate slightly in front of and behind each other as they're fixed to horizontal rails. This overlapping arrangement gives the fence a neat, consistent look from both sides and adds rigidity. It's one of the most popular residential fence styles across New Zealand.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
In many cases, a standard residential boundary fence does not require a building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004, provided it meets certain height limits (generally no more than 2.5 m — but the exact height threshold and conditions vary depending on fence location and your local council's district plan). However, rules vary depending on your local council, the fence location, and whether it's on a retaining structure. Always check with your local council before you start — don't assume your project is exempt. You can find general guidance at MBIE Building Performance.
Tools You'll Need (No Nail Gun Required)
Building by hand is perfectly achievable with the following:
- Claw hammer — a 570–680 g framing hammer gives you good driving power
- String line and spirit level — essential for keeping rails and palings straight
- Tape measure and pencil
- Circular saw or handsaw — for trimming palings to height
- Post hole borer or spade — for setting posts
- Drill/driver — useful for fixing rails to posts with coach screws
- Safety glasses and gloves
Choosing the Right Timber
For a fence that lasts in the New Zealand climate — especially in wetter regions — timber selection matters:
- Posts: Use H4-treated timber for ground contact (e.g., 100 × 100 mm). H4 treatment is rated for in-ground use and resists rot and borer.
- Rails: H3-treated 75 × 50 mm or 100 × 50 mm timber is suitable for above-ground use exposed to weather.
- Palings: Typically 100 × 12 mm or 150 × 12 mm H3.2-treated radiata pine palings. These are widely available at Bunnings, Mitre 10, and PlaceMakers.
Always check the Hazard Class stamped on the timber — using the wrong treatment level is a common and costly mistake.
Nails: What to Use
Because you're hand-nailing, nail choice is important:
- Use hot-dipped galvanised (HDG) nails — never bright steel, which will rust and stain the timber within a season or two.
- 30 mm or 40 mm jolt-head nails are typical for fixing palings to rails.
- Two nails per paling per rail is standard practice — one near each edge, avoiding the very centre to reduce splitting.
| Component | Recommended Nail | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Paling to rail | Hot-dipped galvanised jolt-head | 40 mm |
| Rail to post (face-fix) | HDG framing nail or coach screw | 75–90 mm |
Step-by-Step: Hand-Nailing Lapped Palings
1. Set Your Posts
Dig post holes to at least 600 mm depth (deeper in soft or sandy soils — a common rule of thumb is one-third of the post length in the ground). Set posts in concrete, check they're plumb, and allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before loading the posts.
2. Fix the Rails
Attach two or three horizontal rails between posts using coach screws or framing nails. For a standard 1.8 m fence, three rails (top, middle, bottom) give the best support for lapped palings.
3. Mark Your Overlap
Decide on your overlap — typically 25–35 mm is standard. Cut a small spacer block to this width to keep your overlap consistent as you work along the fence.
4. Nail the Palings
Start at one end. Hold the first paling plumb (use your spirit level), then nail it to each rail with two HDG nails. Butt the next paling up to your spacer block, check it's plumb, and nail it. Alternate which side of the rail each paling sits on to achieve the lapped effect.
Tip: Pre-drilling a small pilot hole near the bottom of each paling reduces splitting — especially on dry or narrow palings.
5. Finish the Tops
For a tidy finish, you can add a capping rail along the top, or cut palings to a consistent height using a chalk line as a guide.
Tips for Hand-Nailing Success
- Keep nails straight — angled nails are harder to drive cleanly and can split the paling.
- Don't over-drive — sink the nail head just flush, not below the surface, to avoid weakening the timber.
- Work in dry weather — wet timber swells and can cause gaps to appear once it dries.
- Take breaks — hand-nailing a full fence is physically demanding. Pace yourself to maintain accuracy.
When to Call a Professional
While a lapped paling fence is a manageable DIY project for most homeowners, there are situations where it's worth bringing in a qualified fencer:
- Sloped or uneven sections that require complex post setting or stepped rails
- Retaining fences that hold back soil — these may require engineering input and a building consent
- Large projects where accuracy and speed matter
- Boundary disputes — always confirm the legal boundary with your council or a surveyor before building
You can find experienced, local fencing professionals on tradedirectory.co.nz.
