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Herringbone vs Basketweave Tile Patterns: What's the Difference?

Herringbone and basketweave are both classic tile layouts, but they look and install quite differently. Here's how to choose the right one for your home.

Herringbone vs Basketweave Tile Patterns: What's the Difference?
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Choosing a tile pattern can feel just as important as choosing the tile itself — and two of the most popular classic layouts are herringbone and basketweave. Both have been used for centuries and suit a wide range of NZ homes, from villas to modern new builds. Understanding how they differ will help you pick the right look and avoid surprises during installation.

What Is a Herringbone Pattern?

Herringbone is created by laying rectangular tiles at 45-degree or 90-degree angles to each other in a V-shape, so that the end of one tile meets the side of the next. The result is a continuous zigzag that resembles the skeleton of a fish — hence the name. It's a dynamic, directional pattern that draws the eye along a surface, making it a popular choice for hallways, kitchen splashbacks, and bathroom floors.

There are two main herringbone variations:

  • Standard herringbone – tiles are laid at 90 degrees to each other, creating a classic zigzag.
  • Chevron herringbone – tiles are cut at an angle so the points meet perfectly, forming a sharper, more seamless arrow shape. Note that chevron requires specially cut tiles, which adds cost.
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What Is a Basketweave Pattern?

Basketweave mimics the over-under weave of a woven basket. It's typically made using pairs of rectangular tiles arranged alternately in horizontal and vertical groups, often surrounding a small square tile in the centre. The effect is a repeating, interlocking grid that feels orderly and traditional.

Basketweave works beautifully in bathrooms, laundries, and period-style kitchens. It has a more symmetrical, contained feel compared to herringbone's flowing movement.

Common basketweave formats include:

  • Two-tile basketweave – pairs of rectangles alternating direction.
  • Classic mosaic basketweave – small rectangular tiles (often 48×98mm or similar) pre-mounted on mesh sheets, widely available at NZ tile suppliers and stores like Mitre 10 and Bunnings.

Side-by-Side Comparison

FeatureHerringboneBasketweave
Visual effectDynamic, directional, modernSymmetrical, traditional, contained
Best forHallways, splashbacks, feature floorsBathrooms, laundries, period homes
Tile shape neededRectangles (e.g. 75×150mm, 100×200mm)Rectangles + optional square accent
Cutting complexityModerate–high (angled cuts at edges)Low–moderate
Grout linesDiagonal, prominentGrid-like, regular
Tile wasteHigher (more offcuts)Lower
DIY difficultyModerate–challengingModerate

Which Pattern Uses More Tiles?

Both patterns generate more waste than a straight grid lay, but herringbone — especially the 45-degree version — tends to produce more offcuts at the edges and corners. As a general rule, allow for at least 10–15% extra tiles for herringbone, and around 10% for basketweave, to account for cuts and breakages. Always buy a little extra and keep some in reserve for future repairs.

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Grout Joints and Wet Areas

In wet areas like showers and bathroom floors, grout joint width and waterproofing matter as much as the pattern. BRANZ and the NZ Building Code (specifically Clause E3 – Internal Moisture) require that wet areas be properly waterproofed before tiling. This applies regardless of the pattern you choose. Use a quality flexible adhesive and grout suitable for wet areas — products from Ardex or Mapei are well regarded in the NZ trade.

For herringbone in a shower, keep in mind that the diagonal grout lines can make waterproofing membrane laps slightly trickier to plan around — something an experienced tiler will manage confidently.

Setting Out: The Key to Getting It Right

Both patterns require careful setting out before a single tile is fixed. This means finding the centre of the room or wall, dry-laying tiles to check the pattern works symmetrically, and adjusting so you don't end up with tiny slivers at the edges.

  • For herringbone, start from a central line and work outward, keeping your angle consistent.
  • For basketweave, establish a clear grid reference and confirm your repeat unit fits the space evenly.

Rushing the setting-out stage is the most common cause of a pattern that looks "off" once finished.

Which Pattern Suits NZ Homes?

Herringbone has surged in popularity in NZ over the past decade, particularly in subway-tile splashbacks and timber-look floor tiles. It suits contemporary, Scandi, and coastal styles common in newer NZ builds.

Basketweave has a timeless quality that complements villas, bungalows, and character homes — styles you'll find throughout Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch. It's a natural fit if you're restoring period features or want a classic bathroom look.

When to Call a Professional

While an experienced DIYer can tackle either pattern, both are more demanding than a standard straight lay. Herringbone in particular requires precise angle-cutting with a wet saw, consistent spacing, and confident setting out. Mistakes are costly in both time and materials.

If your project involves a shower, bathroom floor, or any wet area, we strongly recommend using a qualified tiler. Waterproofing in these areas is critical to meet the NZ Building Code, and poor installation can lead to leaks and structural damage. You can find licensed, experienced local tilers on tradedirectory.co.nz.

For rental properties, landlords should also be aware of Healthy Homes Standards requirements around moisture control, which proper tiling and waterproofing directly supports.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use herringbone or basketweave on both walls and floors?+

Yes, both patterns work on walls and floors. However, make sure you use tiles rated for the intended surface — floor tiles need an appropriate slip rating (especially in wet areas), while wall tiles don't need to bear foot traffic loads. Check the tile's specifications before purchasing.

Is herringbone harder to tile than basketweave?+

Generally, yes. Herringbone requires more angled cuts, especially at the edges and corners, and demands careful setting out to keep the zigzag consistent. Basketweave is more forgiving because it follows a regular grid. Both are more complex than a straight lay, so factor in extra time and tile wastage.

What size tiles work best for a herringbone pattern?+

Rectangular tiles with a roughly 1:2 or 1:3 ratio work best — for example, 75×150mm, 100×200mm, or 100×300mm. Longer, narrower tiles create a more dramatic herringbone effect. Avoid square tiles, as they won't produce the classic zigzag look.

Do I need to waterproof under tiles in a NZ bathroom regardless of pattern?+

Yes. The NZ Building Code (Clause E3 – Internal Moisture) requires proper waterproofing in wet areas such as showers and around baths, regardless of the tile pattern used. A qualified tiler will apply an approved membrane system before laying any tiles. Skipping this step can lead to serious water damage and may affect your home insurance.

How much extra tile should I buy for a herringbone or basketweave layout?+

As a general guide, allow at least 10–15% extra for herringbone (due to the angled edge cuts) and around 10% for basketweave. It's always worth buying a few extra tiles from the same batch to match colour and texture, and to keep on hand for future repairs.

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The information on this page is provided as a general guide only. tradedirectory.co.nz makes no representations or warranties regarding the accuracy, completeness, or suitability of this information for your specific situation. Costs, timeframes, and recommendations vary significantly depending on your location, property, and individual circumstances. Always obtain multiple quotes from qualified tradespeople and seek independent professional advice before undertaking any home improvement or building work. tradedirectory.co.nz accepts no liability for any loss or damage arising from reliance on the information provided on this site.