Picking the right adhesive is one of those things that separates a lasting repair from one that fails six months later. With so many glues on the shelf at your local Bunnings or Mitre 10, it can be hard to know where to start. This guide breaks down the most common wood glues and matches them to the jobs you're most likely to tackle at home.
The Main Types of Wood Glue
Understanding what each glue is designed to do will save you time, money, and frustration.
PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) Glue
PVA glue is the everyday workhorse of woodworking. It's water-based, easy to clean up, non-toxic, and bonds wood fibres extremely well. Standard PVA is suitable for interior joinery, furniture repairs, and general timber work. Look for Type 1 (interior) or Type 2 (water-resistant) grades — Type 2 is worth choosing for kitchens, laundries, or anywhere with occasional moisture exposure.
- Great for: furniture joints, cabinet making, timber framing repairs, mouldings
- Not ideal for: fully exterior or submerged applications
- Clamp time: typically 30–60 minutes; full cure in 24 hours
Polyurethane Glue
Polyurethane (PU) glue expands slightly as it cures, filling small gaps in joints. It bonds wood, metal, stone, and plastics, and is highly water-resistant once cured — making it a solid choice for exterior timber work.
- Great for: outdoor furniture, decking repairs, mixed-material joints
- Watch out for: foaming expansion can squeeze out of joints; clamp carefully and wipe excess quickly
- Requires: slightly damp surfaces for best activation
Epoxy Adhesive
Two-part epoxy (resin + hardener) creates an incredibly strong, rigid, waterproof bond. It's the go-to when you need gap-filling strength or are bonding wood to non-porous materials like metal or fibreglass.
- Great for: structural repairs, filling voids, bonding timber to concrete or metal
- Downsides: more expensive, mixing required, limited working time
- Brands like Sika offer epoxy products suited to construction and repair work
Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue)
Super glue bonds fast but is brittle under stress. It's best reserved for small, tight-fitting repairs where parts are under minimal load.
- Great for: small trim repairs, re-gluing veneer edges, quick fixes
- Not suitable for: structural joints or anything that flexes
Construction Adhesive
Construction adhesives (such as grab adhesives in cartridge form) are designed for bonding large surfaces — think fixing skirting boards, architraves, or sheet materials to framing. They're flexible when cured and can bridge uneven surfaces.
- Great for: installing skirting, fixing GIB board, adhering sheet flooring
- Apply with a caulking gun; follow manufacturer's open time instructions
Glue Comparison Table
| Glue Type | Water Resistance | Gap Filling | Best For | Ease of Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PVA (Type 1) | Low | Poor | Interior joinery, furniture | Very easy |
| PVA (Type 2) | Moderate | Poor | Kitchens, laundries | Very easy |
| Polyurethane | High | Good | Exterior timber, mixed materials | Moderate |
| Two-Part Epoxy | Very high | Excellent | Structural repairs, voids | Moderate |
| Super Glue | Low | Poor | Small trim, veneer | Easy |
| Construction Adhesive | Moderate–High | Good | Skirting, sheet fixing | Easy |
Matching Glue to Common NZ Home Jobs
Interior Furniture and Joinery
For chair joints, drawer repairs, or cabinet work, a Type 2 PVA is your best friend. It's strong, affordable, and widely available. Clamp joints firmly and allow a full 24-hour cure before putting the piece back into service.
Decking and Outdoor Timber
NZ's variable climate — from humid Northland summers to frosty South Island winters — means outdoor glue joints need real water resistance. Use a polyurethane glue or exterior-rated epoxy for any outdoor timber repairs. Check that your adhesive is rated for exterior use and UV exposure.
Wet Areas (Bathrooms, Kitchens)
For timber in wet areas, the NZ Building Code (specifically clause E3) sets requirements around moisture management. Use at minimum a Type 2 PVA or polyurethane glue, and always pair good gluing practice with appropriate sealing and ventilation.
Fixing Skirting Boards and Architraves
A construction adhesive in a cartridge, combined with a few finishing nails, gives a solid, rattle-free fix. Apply in a zigzag bead, press firmly, and support until the adhesive grabs.
Structural Timber Repairs
For anything load-bearing — rafters, bearers, joists — consult a professional. Adhesives alone are rarely sufficient for structural repairs, which may need to comply with NZS 3604 (Timber-framed buildings). BRANZ has useful guidance on repair methods for residential timber framing.
Tips for Getting a Strong Glue Joint
- Prepare surfaces well — glue bonds to wood, not dust or old finish. Sand or scrape surfaces clean.
- Clamp properly — most glues need firm, even pressure during cure. Don't skip this step.
- Watch the temperature — most adhesives won't cure properly below about 10°C. In winter, work indoors or warm the workspace.
- Don't over-apply — a thin, even coat is usually better than a thick one. Squeeze-out is normal and should be wiped away before it cures.
- Check the shelf life — old PVA can skin over or lose strength. If it's lumpy or stringy, replace it.
When to Call a Professional
If your woodworking repair involves structural elements — floor joists, wall framing, roof structure — it's time to bring in a qualified carpenter. Structural repairs may require a Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP) under the Building Act, particularly if a building consent is involved. You can find trusted local carpenters on tradedirectory.co.nz. For anything involving plumbing penetrations through timber or electrical work near timber framing, those tasks must be carried out by licensed tradespeople registered with the PGDB or EWRB respectively.