Tiling around a toilet or vanity is one of those jobs that looks tricky but is very achievable for a capable DIYer — as long as you take your time, plan carefully, and understand the waterproofing requirements that apply in New Zealand bathrooms. Getting it right means a tidy, long-lasting finish that meets the NZ Building Code and keeps moisture where it belongs.
Understanding NZ Bathroom Waterproofing Requirements
Before you touch a single tile, it's worth understanding that New Zealand's Building Code clause E3 (Internal Moisture) sets out requirements for wet areas. Bathrooms are considered wet areas, and any tiled surface that gets regularly wet — including floors and walls around a vanity or toilet — must be properly waterproofed underneath the tiles.
BRANZ provides excellent guidance on wet area construction, and MBIE Building Performance publishes the acceptable solutions for E3. If your bathroom is being renovated as part of a larger project requiring a building consent, the waterproofing membrane must be installed correctly and may need to be inspected before tiling.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
Gather everything before you start to avoid mid-job trips to the hardware store:
- Tiles (plus around 10% extra for cuts and breakages)
- Tile adhesive suitable for wet areas (e.g. a polymer-modified adhesive from Ardex or Mapei)
- Waterproofing membrane (liquid-applied or sheet, suitable for wet areas)
- Grout — unsanded for joints under 3 mm, sanded for wider joints
- Tile spacers
- Notched trowel, grout float, sponges
- Angle grinder or wet tile saw for cuts
- Tape measure, pencil, spirit level
- Silicone sealant — use a sanitary-grade silicone for junctions
- Safety glasses and gloves
You'll find a good range of tiling supplies at Bunnings or Mitre 10, and PlaceMakers often stocks trade-quality adhesives and membranes.
Step 1: Prepare the Surface
Surface preparation is everything. Tiles will only bond and last if the substrate is solid, clean, and flat.
- Remove the toilet or vanity if possible — this gives you a far cleaner result and is strongly recommended. Toilets are straightforward to disconnect (turn off the water supply, flush, disconnect the pan connector), but remember that any work on the waste pipe or water supply connections is restricted plumbing work that must be done by a licensed plumber (see the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board).
- Check the floor or wall substrate is firm and flat. Plasterboard in wet areas must be moisture-resistant (e.g. GIB Aqualine or similar).
- Fill any holes or low spots and allow to cure fully.
Step 2: Apply Waterproofing Membrane
Apply a wet-area waterproofing membrane to the floor and at least 100–150 mm up the walls (or higher if required by the product or consent). Pay special attention to:
- Floor-to-wall junctions — use membrane tape embedded in the first coat
- Around pipe penetrations — seal carefully with the membrane
- Allow the membrane to cure fully before tiling (check the manufacturer's data sheet for cure times)
Step 3: Plan Your Tile Layout
Good planning prevents awkward slivers of tile in visible spots.
- Find the centre of the floor or wall and dry-lay tiles outward to see how cuts will fall.
- Aim to have cut tiles of equal size on opposite sides, and avoid cuts smaller than half a tile in prominent positions.
- Around a toilet base or vanity pedestal, plan so the tiles meet the fixture neatly — you'll caulk the junction with silicone rather than grout (more on that below).
Step 4: Cut Tiles to Fit
Cutting around a toilet base or vanity cabinet requires patience and accurate measuring.
- Straight cuts: Use a score-and-snap tile cutter or wet saw.
- Curved or irregular cuts: An angle grinder with a diamond blade works well. Always wear safety glasses and a dust mask — tile dust is hazardous.
- Pipe penetrations: Use a hole saw with a diamond-tipped bit, or carefully nibble away with tile nippers.
- Test-fit each cut tile before applying adhesive.
Step 5: Lay the Tiles
- Mix adhesive to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Use a notched trowel to apply adhesive to the substrate (back-buttering large tiles is also recommended).
- Press tiles firmly, twist slightly to bed them, and use spacers to maintain consistent joints.
- Check regularly with a spirit level — floors should maintain any required fall toward the drain.
- Leave a gap (no adhesive) at all internal corners and junctions — these will be filled with silicone, not grout, to allow for movement.
Step 6: Grout and Seal
- Allow adhesive to cure fully (typically 24 hours, but check the product data sheet).
- Remove spacers and apply grout with a rubber float, working it into the joints at an angle.
- Clean off excess grout with a damp sponge before it hardens.
- Once grout has cured, apply sanitary silicone to all internal corners, the junction between the tile and toilet base, and around the vanity cabinet. This flexible seal prevents water ingress and allows for natural movement.
Comparison: Tiling With vs. Without Removing the Fixture
| Approach | Finish Quality | Difficulty | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Remove toilet/vanity first | Excellent — full tile coverage | Moderate | Requires licensed plumber for plumbing disconnection |
| Tile around in-situ fixture | Acceptable — visible cut edges | Easier | Harder to waterproof properly; less professional result |
When to Call a Professional
Some parts of this job must be handled by licensed tradespeople:
- Disconnecting or reconnecting water supply lines and waste pipes is restricted work under the Plumbers, Gasfitters, and Drainlayers Act. Always use a registered plumber.
- If your project requires a building consent, waterproofing may need to be inspected before tiling — check with your local council.
- If you're unsure about the substrate condition, waterproofing, or complex cuts, a professional tiler will save you time and costly mistakes.
You can find qualified local tilers and plumbers on tradedirectory.co.nz.