How Do I Tile a Kitchen Splashback? A Step-by-Step DIY Guide

Tiling a kitchen splashback is one of the most satisfying DIY projects a homeowner can tackle — it's manageable in a weekend, adds real visual impact, and protects your walls from grease and moisture. With the right preparation, tools, and materials, you can achieve a professional-looking result without needing a tradesperson for most of the work.

What You'll Need

Before you start, gather your materials and tools:

• Tiles (ceramic, porcelain, glass, or natural stone)
• Tile adhesive (wall tile adhesive suitable for wet/kitchen areas)
• Tile grout (unsanded for joints under 3 mm, sanded for wider joints)
• Notched trowel (size matched to your tile)
• Tile cutter or angle grinder with diamond blade
• Tile spacers (typically 2–3 mm for splashbacks)
• Spirit level and pencil
• Grout float and sponge
• Silicone sealant (kitchen-grade, mould-resistant)
• Tape measure and straight edge

For adhesives and grouts, Ardex and Mapei both offer quality products widely available at NZ tile and building suppliers. Sika also makes reliable silicone sealants suited to kitchen environments.

Step 1 – Plan Your Layout

Good planning prevents costly mistakes. Measure your splashback area carefully and calculate how many tiles you need — always order 10–15% extra to allow for cuts and breakages.

• Find the centre point of your splashback and work outward so cuts are even on both sides.
• Do a dry lay on the floor first to visualise the pattern and minimise awkward cuts near power points or cabinetry.
• Consider the grout joint width — smaller joints give a sleeker look, wider joints are more forgiving on slightly uneven walls.

Step 2 – Prepare the Surface

Surface preparation is the most important step. Tiles will only bond well to a clean, flat, and stable substrate.

• Remove any old splashback material, grease, paint, or wallpaper.
• Fill holes and sand down high spots. The wall should be flat to within about 3 mm over a 1.8 m straight edge.
• If you're tiling over painted plasterboard, lightly sand the surface and apply a tile primer if recommended by your adhesive manufacturer.
• Ensure the area around the rangehood and powerpoints is clean and dry.
• Turn off the power at the switchboard before working near power points — more on this below.

BRANZ provides excellent technical guidance on substrate preparation for tiling in residential settings.

Step 3 – Apply the Tile Adhesive

• Mix or open your adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions.
• Use a notched trowel to spread adhesive onto the wall in manageable sections — don't spread more than you can tile in about 20–30 minutes.
• Use the back-buttering technique (applying a thin layer of adhesive to the back of each tile as well) for better coverage, especially with larger tiles or glass tiles.
• Press each tile firmly into place with a slight twisting motion, then check it's level.
• Insert tile spacers as you go to keep joints consistent.

Step 4 – Cut Tiles to Fit

You'll almost certainly need to cut tiles around power points, cabinetry edges, and the rangehood.

• A manual tile cutter works well for straight cuts on ceramic tiles.
• For porcelain, glass, or curves, use an angle grinder with a diamond blade or a wet saw — wear eye protection and a dust mask.
• Measure twice, cut once. Mark cuts clearly with a pencil or tile marker.

Step 5 – Grout the Tiles

Allow the adhesive to cure fully — check the product instructions, but this is typically 24 hours before grouting.

• Remove all tile spacers.
• Mix grout to a smooth, peanut-butter consistency.
• Use a rubber grout float to press grout firmly into the joints at a diagonal angle.
• Wipe off excess grout with a damp sponge before it dries, rinsing frequently.
• Once the grout has hazed over (usually 20–30 minutes), buff the tiles clean with a dry cloth.
• Allow grout to cure fully before exposing to moisture.

Step 6 – Seal the Edges with Silicone

This step is critical and often skipped by DIYers. Never grout the junction between the splashback and the benchtop, or between tiles and cabinetry — these are movement joints that must be filled with flexible silicone sealant.

• Apply a bead of kitchen-grade, mould-resistant silicone along all internal corners and the benchtop junction.
• Smooth with a wet finger or a caulking tool for a neat finish.
• Allow to cure fully (usually 24 hours) before using the kitchen.

Choosing the Right Tiles

Mitre 10 and Bunnings both stock a solid range of splashback tiles, while specialist tile shops often carry a wider selection of formats and finishes.

When to Call a Professional

While tiling itself is not restricted work, there are important exceptions:

• Electrical work is restricted. Relocating, adding, or modifying power points near your splashback must be done by a registered electrician — this is a legal requirement under the Electrical Workers Registration Board (EWRB) rules. You can remove a power point cover plate to tile behind it, but reconnection must be done by a licensed electrician.
• Complex layouts or large-format tiles (over 600 mm) can be tricky to hang level and may be better left to an experienced tiler.
• If your walls are significantly out of plumb or the substrate is damaged, a professional can assess whether a render coat or new substrate is needed.

You can find qualified, local tilers and electricians on tradedirectory.co.nz to help with any part of the job you're not comfortable tackling yourself.

Safety Notes

• Always isolate power at the switchboard before working near power points.
• Wear safety glasses and gloves when cutting tiles — edges are razor sharp.
• Use a P2 dust mask when cutting porcelain or stone to avoid inhaling silica dust — this is a serious health hazard. See WorkSafe NZ for guidance on silica dust safety.

Sources & Further Reading

• BRANZ – Building Research
• WorkSafe NZ – Silica Dust
• EWRB – Electrical Licensing
• Ardex NZ – Tile Adhesives & Grouts
• Mapei NZ – Tiling Products
• MBIE Building Performance