Painting over a shiny enamel finish on skirting boards is absolutely a DIY-friendly job, but the key to success is preparation. Skipping the prep is the number one reason paint peels or looks patchy — the new paint simply won't bond to a slick, glossy surface without a little help.
Why Glossy Enamel Is Tricky to Paint Over
Traditional solvent-based (oil-based) enamel creates a very hard, non-porous surface. New paint — especially water-based paint — struggles to grip it without proper preparation. If you apply paint directly over a shiny surface, you risk poor adhesion, peeling, and a finish that chips easily. A little elbow grease upfront saves a lot of frustration later.
What You'll Need
- 120–180 grit sandpaper (or a sanding sponge for detailed profiles)
- Fine sanding block
- Sugar soap or a degreasing cleaner
- Clean cloths and a bucket
- Painter's masking tape
- A quality adhesion primer (water-based or oil-based, depending on your topcoat)
- Trim paint or enamel topcoat
- 50–63 mm angled brush
- Drop cloth or old newspaper
Step 1 — Clean the Surface Thoroughly
Before you touch sandpaper to the skirting, wash the boards down with sugar soap and warm water. Skirting boards collect dust, grease, scuff marks, and cleaning product residue over the years. Any contamination left on the surface will prevent good adhesion. Rinse with clean water and allow to dry completely — this can take a couple of hours in a well-ventilated room.
Step 2 — Sand the Enamel Back
This is the most important step. Using 120–180 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the entire surface of the skirting boards. You're not trying to strip the paint — just scuff the gloss to give the new paint something to grip. Work along the grain of the timber and pay attention to any detailed moulding profiles; a sanding sponge is handy here as it flexes into curves.
Once sanded, wipe down with a tack cloth or damp cloth to remove all dust. Allow to dry again before moving on.
Safety note: If your home was built before the 1980s, the existing paint may contain lead. Sanding lead paint creates hazardous dust. Check with WorkSafe NZ for guidance on safe handling, and consider having a professional assess and carry out the work if lead paint is suspected.
Step 3 — Apply Masking Tape
Run painter's masking tape along the floor edge and the wall above the skirting. Press the tape edge down firmly with a putty knife or your fingernail to prevent paint bleeding underneath. Lay a drop cloth on the floor.
Step 4 — Prime the Surface
Applying a quality adhesion primer is strongly recommended when painting over enamel, especially if you're switching from an oil-based enamel to a water-based topcoat. Primer bridges the gap between the old and new paint systems and dramatically improves adhesion and durability.
- If you're using a water-based topcoat, use a water-based acrylic primer or a dedicated adhesion primer.
- If you're sticking with an oil-based enamel topcoat, an oil-based undercoat works well.
Brands like Resene, Dulux, and Wattyl all offer suitable primers for this application — ask in-store for their recommended primer for painting over enamel. Apply one even coat with your angled brush and allow to dry fully per the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 5 — Apply Your Topcoat
For skirting boards, choose a semi-gloss or gloss trim paint — these finishes are durable, easy to wipe clean, and look sharp. Modern water-based acrylic enamels have improved enormously and are a popular choice because they dry faster, have lower odour, and clean up with water. However, traditional oil-based enamels still offer an exceptionally hard finish if that's your preference.
Apply two thin coats rather than one thick coat, allowing each coat to dry fully in between. Brush in long, smooth strokes along the length of the skirting. Lightly sand with 220 grit between coats for the smoothest result, then wipe away dust before the final coat.
Tips for a Professional-Looking Finish
- Don't overload your brush — a loaded brush causes drips and runs.
- Paint in a well-ventilated room, especially with oil-based products.
- Remove masking tape while the final coat is still slightly tacky to avoid pulling the paint edge.
- Fill any gaps between the skirting and wall with a paintable acrylic sealant before priming for a neat, draught-free finish.
Choosing the Right Paint
| Finish | Durability | Dry Time | Clean-up | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Water-based acrylic enamel | Good–Very good | 1–2 hrs | Water | Most NZ homes |
| Oil-based enamel | Excellent | 8–16 hrs | Mineral turps | High-traffic areas |
| Semi-gloss acrylic | Good | 1–2 hrs | Water | Budget-friendly option |
You can find suitable paints and supplies at Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers, or visit a specialist paint store for expert advice.
When to Call a Professional
While painting skirting boards is well within most homeowners' abilities, there are times when it's worth calling in a qualified painter:
- If lead paint is present or suspected (pre-1980s homes).
- If the existing enamel is heavily cracked, flaking, or damaged — this may indicate a moisture problem that needs investigating first.
- If you want a flawless, high-end finish throughout the whole house.
- If the job is large, time-consuming, or you simply don't have the tools.
A qualified painter will have the right equipment, products, and experience to get the job done efficiently. You can find trusted local painters on tradedirectory.co.nz.