Painting your interior walls is one of the most rewarding DIY jobs you can tackle as a homeowner — and you don't need any experience to get a great result. The secret is in the preparation, using quality products, and taking your time. Follow this step-by-step guide and you'll be surprised how professional your walls can look.
What You'll Need Before You Start
Gathering the right tools and materials upfront saves you multiple trips to the hardware store. Here's what to have on hand:
- Paint – choose an interior wall paint in your preferred finish (more on this below)
- Primer – essential for new plasterboard, repaired surfaces, or dramatic colour changes
- Roller and roller covers – a 230–270 mm roller is ideal for walls
- Angled cutting-in brush – a 50–75 mm brush for edges and corners
- Roller tray and liner
- Painter's masking tape (blue low-tack tape)
- Drop sheets – canvas or plastic to protect floors and furniture
- Sandpaper – 120–180 grit for smoothing surfaces
- Sugar soap and sponge – for cleaning walls
- Putty or filler – for filling holes and cracks
- Stir sticks
You'll find all of these at Bunnings or Mitre 10.
Choosing the Right Paint
For interior walls, you'll generally choose between flat/matte, low-sheen, semi-gloss, or gloss finishes. As a rule of thumb:
| Finish | Best For | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Flat/Matte | Ceilings, low-traffic rooms | Hides imperfections well |
| Low-sheen | Living rooms, bedrooms | Easy to clean, popular choice |
| Semi-gloss | Kitchens, bathrooms, trims | More washable, shows imperfections |
| Gloss | Doors, skirting boards | Very durable, very shiny |
For most beginners painting living areas or bedrooms, a low-sheen interior paint is the go-to choice — it's forgiving and easy to clean. Trusted NZ brands include Resene, Dulux, and Wattyl. Pop into a Resene ColorShop or Dulux trade centre and the staff can help you pick the right product for your surface.
Step 1 – Prepare the Room
Good preparation is what separates a patchy amateur job from a clean, lasting finish. Don't skip this step.
- Move furniture to the centre of the room and cover with drop sheets.
- Remove light switch and power outlet covers (turn off the power at the switchboard first — never work near live wiring).
- Apply painter's tape along skirting boards, window frames, and ceiling edges.
- Fill any holes or cracks with interior filler, let it dry, then sand smooth.
- Clean the walls thoroughly with sugar soap and warm water to remove grease, dust, and grime. Allow to dry completely.
- Lightly sand any rough patches and wipe away dust with a damp cloth.
Step 2 – Apply Primer if Needed
If you're painting over bare plasterboard (such as GIB board), a repaired area, or switching from a very dark to a light colour, apply a coat of primer first. Primer helps the topcoat bond properly and gives you a more even finish. Follow the manufacturer's drying times before moving on.
Step 3 – Cut In the Edges
Cutting in means painting the edges, corners, and areas the roller can't reach — along the ceiling line, around window frames, and down the corners. Use your angled brush and take it slowly. Aim for a neat line about 50–75 mm wide along each edge. Do this before rolling the main wall area.
Tips for cutting in:
- Don't overload the brush — dip about a third of the bristles into the paint.
- Use long, steady strokes.
- Keep a damp cloth handy to wipe any mistakes while the paint is still wet.
Step 4 – Roll the Walls
Once your edges are cut in, it's time to roll the main wall area.
- Pour paint into the tray and load the roller evenly — roll it back and forth on the tray's ridged section to remove excess.
- Apply paint in a 'W' or 'M' pattern across the wall, then fill in the gaps with even strokes. This spreads paint evenly without streaks.
- Work in sections of roughly one square metre at a time.
- Maintain a wet edge — always roll back into the area you've just painted before it dries, to avoid lap marks.
- Apply two coats for best results, allowing the first coat to dry fully (check the tin for drying times — usually 2–4 hours for water-based paints).
Step 5 – Finishing Up
- Carefully remove the painter's tape while the final coat is still slightly tacky — pulling it off dry can peel the paint.
- Refit switch and outlet covers.
- Clean brushes and rollers with water (for water-based paints) immediately after use.
- Allow the room to ventilate well while the paint cures.
When to Call a Professional
Most interior painting is well within a homeowner's ability, but there are times when it pays to bring in a qualified painter:
- Large or complex spaces – high stud ceilings, stairwells, or intricate mouldings are tricky without the right equipment and experience.
- Significant surface damage – if walls have major cracks, water damage, or mould, a professional can assess and treat the underlying issue properly.
- Homes built before 1980 – older paint may contain lead. If you suspect lead paint, stop and seek advice from a professional before sanding or disturbing the surface. Check WorkSafe NZ for guidance on working safely with lead paint.
- Rental properties – if you're a landlord, be aware of Tenancy Services Healthy Homes standards that may affect what work needs to be done.
You can find experienced, local painters on tradedirectory.co.nz who can quote on jobs of any size.