Painting a small bathroom is one of the more satisfying DIY jobs you can tackle on a weekend — but the tight space, awkward fittings, and moisture-prone surfaces mean preparation is everything. Get the masking and paint selection right, work methodically, and you'll end up with a clean, professional-looking finish without a drop on your taps, toilet, or towel rails.
Choose the Right Paint First
Before you even pick up a brush, make sure you're using a paint formulated for wet areas. Standard wall paint will peel and mould in a bathroom environment. Look for products labelled bathroom, kitchen & bathroom, or low-sheen enamel with mould-resistant properties.
Good options available in NZ include:
- Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen Kitchen & Bathroom — excellent moisture and mould resistance
- Dulux Wash & Wear Kitchen & Bathroom
- Wattyl I.D. Kitchen & Bathroom
A low-sheen or satin finish is generally recommended for bathrooms — it's easier to wipe clean than flat paint, but less glare-prone than a full gloss. Check the manufacturer's data sheet for ventilation requirements and recoat times, as these vary.
Gather Your Gear
Having everything ready before you start prevents rushed mistakes:
| Item | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Painter's masking tape (24 mm or 48 mm) | Protecting fittings and edges |
| Plastic drop sheet or old newspaper | Covering the floor, toilet, and vanity |
| Small angled brush (50–63 mm) | Cutting in around fittings and corners |
| Short-nap roller (10 mm nap) | Rolling flat wall areas |
| Sugar soap and sponge | Cleaning walls before painting |
| Fine sandpaper (180–240 grit) | Lightly sanding glossy or patchy areas |
| Damp cloth | Wiping up drips immediately |
Prep the Room Thoroughly
This is the step most DIYers rush — and it's where drips and messy edges come from.
Clean the Walls
Wash all surfaces with sugar soap and warm water to remove soap scum, grease, and mildew. Rinse well and allow to dry completely. Any moisture trapped under paint will cause adhesion failure.
Check for Mould
If you spot mould, treat it with a diluted bleach solution (check the product label for ratios) or a purpose-made mould treatment before painting. BRANZ has guidance on dealing with moisture and mould in homes.
Sand and Fill
Lightly sand any glossy areas so the new paint can grip. Fill small holes or cracks with a flexible interior filler, let it dry, and sand smooth.
Mask Everything Carefully
Masking is the single most important step for keeping fittings clean. In a small bathroom, your taps, toilet cistern, towel rails, and vanity are all within easy drip range.
- Press masking tape firmly along all edges — use a putty knife or your fingernail to seal the tape edge so paint can't bleed underneath.
- Cover the toilet, vanity top, and basin with plastic sheeting or old newspaper secured with tape.
- Lay a drop sheet on the floor. Even a small splash of paint on floor tiles is annoying to clean up.
- Remove towel rails, toilet roll holders, and light switch covers if possible — it's much faster than masking around them and gives a cleaner result.
- Turn off the power at the switchboard before removing any electrical faceplates. Note: any actual electrical work must be done by a registered electrician — see EWRB for what's restricted.
The Painting Sequence
Always work top to bottom and cut in before rolling.
- Cut in the ceiling line with your angled brush — a steady hand and good masking tape are your friends here.
- Cut in around all fittings, corners, and edges — take your time. This is where drips most often happen because people rush.
- Roll the main wall areas using light, even pressure. Don't overload the roller — a thin, even coat beats a thick, drippy one every time.
- Check for runs and drips as you go. Catch them immediately with a damp cloth or lightly brush them out before they set.
- Apply a second coat once the first is fully dry (check the tin for recoat times — typically 2–4 hours for water-based paints).
Ventilation While Painting
Open a window or run the extractor fan while you work. Water-based paints have low VOCs but good airflow keeps you comfortable and helps the paint dry evenly. WorkSafe NZ recommends adequate ventilation whenever working with paints and coatings.
Removing the Masking Tape
Pull tape off at a 45-degree angle while the paint is still slightly tacky — not fully wet, not bone dry. If the paint has hardened, score along the tape edge with a sharp knife first to avoid pulling off chunks of paint.
Touch-Ups and Finishing
Once the tape is off, inspect for any small bleeds or missed spots. Touch these up with a small brush. Allow the final coat to cure fully (usually 7–14 days for water-based paints to reach full hardness) before scrubbing the walls or steaming them with hot showers.
When to Call a Professional
If your bathroom walls have significant moisture damage, crumbling plaster, or mould that keeps returning, it's worth getting a professional painter or builder to assess the underlying cause before repainting. Recurring mould can indicate a ventilation or waterproofing issue that paint alone won't fix — this may involve Healthy Homes compliance considerations for rental properties. A qualified local painter will also have the tools and experience to get a flawless finish in a tight space. You can find experienced painters in your area on tradedirectory.co.nz.