Refreshing a tired bath, basin or shower surround with paint can transform your bathroom without the cost of a full renovation. The key to success is choosing products specifically designed for wet areas and putting in the effort on preparation — skip either and you'll be peeling paint within months. Here's how to do it properly in a New Zealand context.
Understanding the Challenge of Wet Areas
Bathrooms are one of the most demanding environments for any coating. Steam, standing water, cleaning chemicals, and temperature swings all conspire to lift paint that isn't up to the job. The NZ Building Code clause E3 sets requirements for internal moisture control, and any paint system you use in a wet area needs to stand up to those conditions long-term.
There are two distinct scenarios here:
- Painting the walls and ceiling around a bath, basin or shower (tiled or lined surfaces)
- Repainting the bath or basin itself (the actual fixture — typically acrylic, fibreglass, or vitreous enamel)
Both are achievable DIY, but they require different products and approaches.
Choosing the Right Paint
For Walls and Ceilings
Use a bathroom-specific waterborne enamel or semi-gloss paint with mould-resistant properties. Look for products labelled for wet areas or bathrooms. Resene offers their Lustacryl range in a semi-gloss finish well suited to bathroom walls, while Dulux and Wattyl both have bathroom and kitchen formulations with added mould inhibitors. Avoid flat or low-sheen paints in shower surrounds — they absorb moisture and are hard to clean.
For the Bath or Basin Fixture
Repainting an acrylic, fibreglass, or enamel bath or basin requires a two-part epoxy or polyurethane bath enamel. These are specialist products — standard wall paint will not bond to a smooth bath surface and will peel quickly. Ask at your local Mitre 10 or Bunnings for bath and tile refinishing kits, or speak to a paint specialist.
What You'll Need
| Item | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Fine-grit sandpaper (240–400 grit) | Scuff and key the surface |
| Sugar soap or TSP cleaner | Degrease and clean |
| Mould killer / bleach solution | Kill any existing mould |
| Painter's tape and plastic sheeting | Mask off fittings and surrounds |
| Wet-area primer | Adhesion on slick surfaces |
| Bathroom paint or bath enamel | The topcoat |
| Short-nap roller and quality brush | Smooth, even application |
| Respirator mask and gloves | Safety, especially with epoxy products |
Step-by-Step: Preparation
Preparation is everything. A rushed prep job is the number one reason bathroom paint fails.
- Remove mould first. Treat any mould with a diluted bleach solution or a dedicated mould killer. Allow it to dry fully. BRANZ recommends addressing the source of moisture — improve ventilation before you paint or the mould will return.
- Clean thoroughly. Wash the entire surface with sugar soap to remove soap scum, body oils, and grime. Rinse well and allow to dry completely — this may take 24–48 hours in a poorly ventilated bathroom.
- Sand the surface. Lightly sand with 240–400 grit sandpaper to give the new paint something to grip. For a bath or basin, this step is critical — the glossy factory finish must be dulled all over.
- Fill any chips or cracks. Use a waterproof filler suitable for wet areas. Allow to cure and sand smooth.
- Mask off everything. Tape around taps, drain covers, and any surfaces you don't want painted. Use plastic sheeting to protect the floor.
Step-by-Step: Painting
- Apply a suitable primer. On slick or previously painted surfaces, a bonding primer is essential. For bath and basin refinishing, use the primer specified by your topcoat manufacturer — don't substitute.
- Apply thin coats. Whether rolling walls or brushing a bath, thin coats are far better than one thick coat. Two to three thin coats will give a harder, more durable finish.
- Allow proper drying time between coats. Follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly — rushing this is a common mistake. Epoxy bath enamels in particular need adequate cure time between coats.
- Ventilate the space. Open windows and use a fan. This is important both for your safety (especially with solvent-based or two-part products) and for proper film formation.
- Final cure before use. Most bath enamels need at least 48–72 hours before the surface gets wet. Check the product datasheet for the full cure time before using the shower or bath.
Tiled Surrounds
You can paint over tiles using a tile primer and tile paint, which is a popular budget option. Results vary — tile paint works best on wall tiles that aren't subject to constant water immersion. Floor tiles are generally not suitable for painting. Clean and degrease tiles thoroughly, apply a bonding primer, then follow with two coats of tile paint. Re-seal around the bath or shower with a fresh bead of silicone sealant once painting is complete.
Ventilation and Mould Prevention
No paint job will last if the underlying moisture problem isn't fixed. Under the Healthy Homes Standards, rental properties must have adequate bathroom ventilation. Even for your own home, fitting an extractor fan or improving airflow will dramatically extend the life of any bathroom paint job.
When to Call a Professional
If your bath or basin has significant damage, deep chips, or structural cracks, a professional resurfacing job will give a far better and longer-lasting result than DIY painting. Professional bath resurfacers use commercial-grade spray equipment and coatings that are difficult to replicate at home.
For any electrical work — such as installing or moving an extractor fan or bathroom lighting — this is restricted electrical work and must be carried out by a registered electrician. Check the Electrical Workers Registration Board (EWRB) to verify a tradesperson's registration. Similarly, moving or installing plumbing is restricted work under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board (PGDB).
For a quality paint finish, especially on a bath or basin, consider hiring a professional painter. You can find qualified local painters on tradedirectory.co.nz.