Hanging a door that closes smoothly and latches first time is one of those jobs that looks simple but rewards careful preparation. Whether you're replacing an old door or fitting one in a new opening, getting the fit right means understanding your frame, your door blank, and a few key carpentry techniques. This guide walks you through the whole process in plain language.
What You'll Need
Before you start, gather your tools and materials:
- Tape measure and pencil
- Combination square and spirit level
- Hand saw or circular saw (with a fine-tooth blade for clean cuts)
- Plane (hand plane or power planer)
- Chisel set and mallet
- Cordless drill/driver
- Hinge jig (optional but very helpful)
- Door blank sized to suit your opening
- Hinges – typically 3 x 75 mm or 100 mm butt hinges for a standard interior door
- Latch set and strike plate
- Wedges or door horse to hold the door while you work
For materials, Bunnings and Mitre 10 both stock a wide range of door blanks, hinges, and latch hardware suitable for NZ homes.
Understanding Your Door Frame
Before touching the door, check the frame. Use a spirit level to confirm the head (top) is level and both jambs (sides) are plumb. In older NZ homes — especially villas and bungalows — frames can rack or twist over time. If the frame is significantly out of square, you may need to pack or refit it before hanging the door. A door hung in a twisted frame will never close properly, no matter how carefully you fit it.
Also check that the door stop (the small timber strip the door closes against) is in good condition and firmly fixed.
Sizing and Planing the Door
Measure the opening height and width carefully — measure in at least two places for each dimension, as openings are rarely perfectly parallel. Your door blank should be sized to leave a consistent gap around all edges:
| Edge | Recommended Gap |
|---|---|
| Top (head) | 2–3 mm |
| Latch side | 2–3 mm |
| Hinge side | 2 mm |
| Bottom (over carpet) | 10–15 mm |
| Bottom (over hard floor) | 6–10 mm |
Mark your cut lines clearly and saw the door to rough length, then plane to final fit. Always plane the hinge side first, keeping it perfectly straight. Work the latch side to achieve the slight back-bevel (about 3–5°) so the door edge clears the frame as it swings open. Take thin passes with the plane and test-fit regularly — it's easy to remove timber but impossible to put it back.
Marking and Cutting Hinge Recesses
With the door propped in the opening using wedges, mark the hinge positions on both the door and the jamb simultaneously. Standard practice for a 2040 mm door is to position the top hinge around 150–175 mm from the top and the bottom hinge around 200–225 mm from the bottom, with a third hinge centred between them for heavier doors.
Use a sharp chisel to cut the hinge recesses (mortises) so each hinge leaf sits perfectly flush with the timber surface. A hinge jig makes this much faster and more consistent. Recesses that are too deep will cause the door to bind on the hinge side; too shallow and it won't close on the latch side.
Fix the hinges to the door first, then offer the door up and fix to the jamb. Use all the screw holes — skipping screws is a common shortcut that leads to sagging later.
Fitting the Latch and Strike Plate
With the door hanging and swinging freely, mark the latch position on the door edge — typically 900–1000 mm from the floor to the centre of the latch. Drill the face hole with a spade or hole-saw bit, then the edge hole for the latch barrel. Chisel a recess for the latch faceplate so it sits flush.
Close the door gently to mark where the latch bolt meets the jamb, then cut the strike plate recess to match. A well-fitted strike plate means the latch engages with a satisfying click and the door doesn't rattle.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
- Door binds on the hinge side – hinge recesses are too deep; pack them out with thin card.
- Door won't latch – strike plate is misaligned; adjust its position or enlarge the keep slightly.
- Door swings open or closed on its own – frame or hinges are not plumb; check with a level and adjust hinge positions.
- Gap is uneven around the door – the frame may be out of square; re-plane the door to match the actual opening shape.
Finishing the Door
Once the door hangs and latches correctly, fill any screw holes or minor gaps, then paint or stain to suit your interior. Resene and Dulux both offer interior timber paints and stains well suited to NZ conditions. For wet areas such as bathrooms, use a moisture-resistant finish and ensure the bottom edge of the door is sealed to comply with the NZ Building Code clause E3 requirements around moisture management.
When to Call a Professional
Hanging a standard interior door is a manageable DIY project for a confident homeowner with basic tools. However, consider calling a qualified carpenter if:
- The door frame needs to be rebuilt or relocated (which may require a building consent under the NZ Building Code — check with MBIE Building Performance)
- The work involves exterior doors, which have weathertightness and security implications
- You're working in a rental property and need to meet Healthy Homes standards
- The frame is significantly rotten or structurally compromised
A skilled carpenter will have the door hanging perfectly in a fraction of the time. You can find qualified local carpenters on tradedirectory.co.nz.