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How to Fix a Door That Drops and Scrapes Along the Floor

A dropping door is usually caused by loose hinges or a sagging frame. Here's how to diagnose and fix it yourself.

How to Fix a Door That Drops and Scrapes Along the Floor
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A door that drops and scrapes along the floor is one of the most common household annoyances in New Zealand homes, and the good news is that most causes are straightforward to fix yourself with basic tools. The problem is almost always traced back to loose hinges, worn timber, or movement in the door frame — all of which are manageable DIY repairs.

Diagnose the Problem First

Before reaching for your tools, take a few minutes to understand what's causing the drop. Open the door slowly and watch where it binds or scrapes. Check the following:

  • Hinge screws: Are any loose, missing, or pulling out of the timber?
  • Hinge leaves: Are the hinges bent, worn, or sitting proud of the timber?
  • Door frame: Is the frame square, or has it racked or twisted?
  • The door itself: Is it a solid timber door that has swollen due to moisture?
  • Floor level: Has the floor been built up with new flooring (e.g. tiles or vinyl) that's reduced the clearance?

In older NZ homes — especially villas and bungalows — timber movement and foundation settlement are common culprits. In newer homes, swelling from moisture or a build-up of floor coverings is more likely.

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Fix 1: Tighten or Replace Hinge Screws

This is the first thing to try and fixes the problem more often than you'd expect.

  1. Open the door and support it underneath with a wedge or offcut of timber.
  2. Check every screw in every hinge — both on the door and the frame side.
  3. Tighten any loose screws with a screwdriver (not a drill, to avoid stripping).
  4. If screws spin freely and won't grip, the timber holes are stripped. Fix this by:
    • Matchstick method: Remove the screw, push 2–3 matchsticks or toothpicks into the hole with a dab of PVA glue, let it dry, then re-drive the screw.
    • Longer screws: Replace with screws 10–15 mm longer to reach fresh timber. For frame-side hinges, longer screws can bite into the structural framing behind the lining — this is often the most effective fix.

Fix 2: Repack or Adjust the Hinges

If the door hangs at an angle, one hinge may be sitting too deep (mortised too far) or not deep enough.

  • Hinge too deep: Pack it out with thin cardboard or a purpose-made hinge shim behind the hinge leaf.
  • Hinge not deep enough (sitting proud): Carefully deepen the mortise with a sharp chisel.

Always work with the door supported and take small amounts off at a time.

Fix 3: Plane the Bottom of the Door

If the hinges are solid but the door still scrapes, you may need to remove a small amount of material from the bottom edge.

What you'll need

  • Hand plane or belt sander
  • Pencil and straightedge
  • Sandpaper (80–120 grit)
  • Paint or sealant to refinish the edge

Steps

  1. Mark the scrape line clearly with a pencil.
  2. Remove the door by tapping out the hinge pins (on pin-type hinges) or unscrewing the hinges.
  3. Plane or sand the bottom edge, working with the grain to avoid tear-out.
  4. Aim for a 2–3 mm clearance above the floor — enough to clear carpet or slight floor unevenness.
  5. Seal or paint the bottom edge immediately. Bare timber on the bottom of a door is a common entry point for moisture, which can cause the door to swell again. Resene and Dulux both offer suitable timber primers and paints for this purpose.
  6. Rehang the door and check the swing.
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Fix 4: Address Frame Movement or Settlement

If the frame itself is racked (out of square), tightening hinges and planing won't fully solve the problem. This is more common in older homes or where there's been foundation movement.

  • Use a builder's square to check the frame corners.
  • Minor racking can sometimes be corrected by adjusting the door stop (the thin timber strip the door closes against).
  • Significant frame movement may indicate a structural issue and warrants a closer look by a professional.

Note that any work affecting structural elements of your home may require a building consent under the NZ Building Code. Schedule 1 of the Building Act lists exemptions for minor repair work, but always confirm with your local council if you're unsure. MBIE Building Performance has clear guidance on when consent is needed.

Fix 5: Moisture and Swelling

In humid NZ climates — particularly in coastal areas or poorly ventilated homes — timber doors can swell seasonally. If the door only scrapes in winter or after wet weather:

  • Improve ventilation in the room.
  • Ensure the door edges are fully sealed with paint or varnish — all four edges, not just the face.
  • Consider whether a Healthy Homes ventilation improvement might help if you're a landlord.

If swelling is severe and recurring, replacing the door with a more stable option (such as a hollow-core or MDF door) may be worth considering.

When to Call a Professional

Call a qualified builder or carpenter if:

  • The door frame is visibly racked, cracked, or out of square by more than a few millimetres.
  • You suspect foundation settlement or structural movement.
  • The door is a fire door (often found between a garage and living space) — these have specific clearance and sealing requirements under the NZ Building Code and must be maintained correctly.
  • You're not confident working with chisels or removing a heavy door safely.

A licensed builder can diagnose frame issues quickly and ensure any repairs meet the NZ Building Code. You can find qualified local builders and carpenters on tradedirectory.co.nz.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my door scrape the floor only in winter?+

Timber doors absorb moisture from the air and swell when humidity is high — this is very common in NZ winters. Sealing all four edges of the door with paint or varnish helps prevent moisture uptake. Improving ventilation in the room can also reduce seasonal swelling.

How much clearance should there be under an interior door?+

As a general guide, interior doors should have around 5–10 mm clearance above a hard floor, or enough to clear carpet without dragging. For doors with underfloor heating or thick carpet, you may need slightly more. Fire doors have specific clearance requirements — check with a builder if you're unsure.

Can I fix a dropping door without removing it?+

Yes, in many cases. If the problem is loose hinge screws, you can tighten or replace them with the door in place. Only if you need to plane the bottom edge or adjust the hinge mortises will you need to take the door off its hinges.

Do I need a building consent to fix a dropping door?+

For straightforward hinge repairs and minor planing, a building consent is generally not required under Schedule 1 exemptions. However, if the work involves structural framing or fire doors, you should check with your local council. MBIE Building Performance (building.govt.nz) has guidance on consent requirements.

My hinge screws keep coming loose — what's the best long-term fix?+

The most reliable fix is to replace the screws with longer ones (50–75 mm) that reach through the door lining and into the structural framing behind it. On the door side, filling stripped holes with matchsticks and PVA glue before re-driving the original screws usually works well. If the timber is badly damaged, a builder may recommend fitting a new hinge block.

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