A timber paling fence is one of the most popular boundary fencing choices for New Zealand homeowners — it's affordable, attractive, and relatively straightforward to build if you're handy with tools. Whether you're replacing an old fence or starting from scratch, this guide walks you through the whole process from planning to painting.
Plan Before You Build
Before you swing a hammer, do your homework. Check your local council's rules on fence height — most residential areas allow boundary fences up to 1.8 m without a resource consent, but this varies by zone and district plan. If your fence is on a shared boundary, the Fencing Act 1978 means your neighbour may be entitled to share the cost, so it's worth having a conversation early.
Also confirm the exact boundary line. If there's any doubt, engage a licensed surveyor rather than guessing — building on the wrong side of the boundary can be a costly mistake.
Gather Your Materials and Tools
Timber selection
For NZ conditions, choose H4-treated timber for posts and rails (ground contact), and H3.2-treated timber for palings above ground. Treated pine is the most common and cost-effective option. Macrocarpa and cedar are naturally durable alternatives that look great and take stain well.
Typical components for a standard 1.8 m paling fence:
- Posts: 100 × 100 mm, set at 2.4 m centres
- Rails: 75 × 50 mm (two or three rails per bay depending on height)
- Palings: 100 × 19 mm or 150 × 19 mm, cut to your desired height
You can source treated timber and hardware from Mitre 10, Bunnings, or PlaceMakers.
Tools you'll need
- Post-hole borer (hire one — it saves your back)
- Spirit level and string line
- Circular saw or drop saw
- Drill/driver and appropriate screws or nails
- Tape measure and pencil
- Concrete mix (bagged rapid-set works well)
Setting Your Posts
This is the most critical step — a fence is only as good as its posts.
- Mark out your fence line with a string line and stakes.
- Dig post holes to a depth of at least one-third of the post length (for a 1.8 m fence, aim for holes around 600–700 mm deep). Deeper is better in soft or sandy soils.
- Set the first and last posts, check they're plumb with a spirit level, and brace them temporarily.
- Run a string line between the end posts at the correct height to align intermediate posts.
- Pour concrete around each post, crown it slightly above ground level to shed water, and allow it to cure before loading the posts with rails. Rapid-set concrete can be workable within a few hours, but give it a full day if you can.
Fixing the Rails
Once posts are set and concrete has cured, attach your horizontal rails. For a 1.8 m fence, three rails are recommended — one near the top, one near the bottom (keeping it off the ground), and one in the middle.
Fix rails to posts using galvanised joist hangers or by face-fixing with 75–90 mm galvanised screws. Avoid plain steel fixings — NZ's coastal air and wet winters will rust them quickly, staining your timber and weakening the structure.
Attaching the Palings
With rails in place, you're ready for the satisfying part.
- Start at one end and use a spacer block to maintain consistent gaps between palings (a 10–15 mm gap allows airflow and accounts for timber movement).
- Check for plumb every few palings with a spirit level — small errors compound quickly.
- Fix each paling with two galvanised nails or screws per rail. Screws give a stronger, longer-lasting result and are easier to remove later if a paling needs replacing.
- Cut the tops of palings to a consistent height using a chalk line as a guide, or pre-cut them all before you start.
| Fixing method | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Galvanised nails | Fast, traditional look | Can loosen over time |
| Galvanised screws | Strong, removable | Slightly slower to install |
| Stainless steel screws | Best for coastal areas | More expensive |
Finishing and Protecting Your Fence
Untreated or bare timber won't last long in the NZ climate. Apply a quality exterior timber stain, oil, or paint as soon as the fence is built — ideally within a few weeks before the timber weathers.
Resene and Dulux both offer excellent ranges of exterior timber stains and paints suited to NZ conditions. A penetrating oil or semi-transparent stain lets the timber grain show through, while a solid colour paint gives maximum UV and moisture protection. Plan to recoat every few years depending on your exposure.
BRANZ recommends keeping timber off the ground and ensuring good drainage around fence bases to extend the life of your fence significantly.
When to Call a Professional
Building a standard boundary fence is generally DIY-friendly, but there are situations where you should bring in a qualified fencer:
- Sloped or difficult terrain where posts need to be cut to varying heights or the ground is rocky
- Retaining fence combinations — if your fence also acts as a retaining wall over 1.5 m, it may require engineering sign-off under the NZ Building Code
- Disputes with neighbours over the boundary or cost-sharing
- Large projects where hiring a pro saves significant time and ensures a quality result
You can find qualified, local fencing professionals on tradedirectory.co.nz.