A well-laid garden path adds structure, kerb appeal, and practicality to any NZ backyard — whether you're connecting the back door to the vege garden or creating a feature walkway through your planting beds. The good news is that a basic path is one of the more achievable DIY landscaping projects for a capable homeowner, requiring mostly patience, a few hired or borrowed tools, and a weekend or two.
Planning Your Path
Before you buy a single paver, spend time thinking about the path's purpose, route, and width. A comfortable single-person path is generally around 900 mm to 1.2 m wide; a path where two people might pass each other comfortably is closer to 1.5 m. Sketch the route on paper and use a garden hose or rope to mark it out on the ground — this lets you walk it and adjust the curve before committing.
Consider drainage carefully. NZ's variable climate means paths need to shed water rather than pool it. A very slight cross-fall (around 1–2% slope away from the house or garden beds) helps enormously. BRANZ has useful guidance on site drainage principles that apply to outdoor paved areas.
Choosing Your Materials
The material you choose affects cost, look, longevity, and difficulty of installation. Here's a quick comparison:
| Material | Difficulty | Durability | Approx. Cost Guide | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Concrete pavers | Easy–Medium | High | Moderate | Formal or utility paths |
| Natural stone (schist, bluestone) | Medium | Very high | Higher | Feature or cottage gardens |
| Gravel/chip | Easy | Medium | Low | Informal, rural, or cottage style |
| Stepping stones | Easy | High | Low–Moderate | Informal garden access |
| Timber sleepers | Medium | Medium (treated) | Moderate | Rustic or raised garden areas |
For most NZ homeowners, concrete pavers or stepping stones offer the best balance of cost, availability, and ease. You'll find a wide range at Mitre 10 and Bunnings, and PlaceMakers stocks bulk landscaping materials including bedding sand and aggregate.
What You'll Need
- Spade and flat-bladed shovel
- Wheelbarrow
- Rubber mallet
- Spirit level and string line
- Tape measure
- Compactor plate (hire from a local hire shop)
- Bedding sand (coarse, washed — not beach sand)
- Compactable gravel or AP20 aggregate for the sub-base
- Your chosen surface material (pavers, stones, gravel)
- Edging (timber, steel, or plastic landscape edging)
- Safety gloves and steel-capped boots
Step-by-Step: Laying a Paved Path
1. Mark Out and Excavate
Use pegs and string line to define the edges of your path. Excavate to a depth of around 150–200 mm — more if you have soft or clay-heavy soil. Remove all grass, roots, and organic material. NZ soils vary widely; if you're on heavy clay (common in Auckland and Waikato), you may need to dig deeper or add extra drainage material.
2. Lay and Compact the Sub-base
Fill the excavated area with AP20 compactable gravel to a depth of around 100 mm. Spread it evenly and compact it thoroughly with a plate compactor. This is the most important step — a well-compacted sub-base prevents pavers from sinking or shifting over time.
3. Install Edging
Fit your edging along both sides of the path before laying the surface. This keeps pavers aligned and stops them spreading outward. Timber edging (use H4-treated timber for ground contact) or steel landscape edging both work well.
4. Lay Bedding Sand
Spread a 50 mm layer of coarse bedding sand over the compacted sub-base. Use a screed board (a length of timber) pulled along the string lines to level it. Do not compact the sand at this stage.
5. Lay Your Pavers
Start from one end and work forward, placing pavers onto the sand bed. Use a rubber mallet to tap each one level. Check regularly with a spirit level and your string line. Maintain consistent joint gaps (typically 3–5 mm for pavers) using spacers if needed.
6. Compact and Fill Joints
Once all pavers are laid, run the plate compactor over the surface (place a rubber mat or old carpet under the plate to protect the paver surface). Then brush fine dry sand or kiln-dried jointing sand into the gaps. Compact again and repeat until joints are full.
7. Finishing Touches
Backfill soil or mulch up to the edging on both sides, and water the path lightly to help settle the jointing sand.
Gravel Paths: A Simpler Option
For an informal path, gravel is much quicker to lay. Excavate to around 100 mm, compact the sub-base, lay a geotextile weed mat, then fill with 20–40 mm decorative chip or pea gravel to a depth of around 50–75 mm. Edging is essential to keep gravel contained. Top up annually as needed.
When to Call a Professional
Most simple garden paths are well within DIY reach, but there are times to bring in a qualified landscaper:
- Steep slopes or retaining walls — any retaining wall over 1.5 m high may require a building consent under the NZ Building Code, and structural work should involve a licensed professional.
- Large areas or complex drainage — if your path connects to stormwater or drainage systems, a drainlayer may be required for any connection work.
- Driveways — vehicle-rated paving has different sub-base and thickness requirements and is best left to experienced contractors.
If you'd rather leave it to the experts, you can find qualified local landscapers on tradedirectory.co.nz who can quote on the full job.
Sources & Further Reading
- BRANZ – Site drainage and outdoor paving guidance
- MBIE Building Performance – When you need a building consent
- Mitre 10 – Paving and landscaping materials
- Bunnings – Pavers, edging and landscaping supplies
- PlaceMakers – Bulk aggregates and landscaping materials
- WorkSafe NZ – Safe use of tools and manual handling