Adding noggings between wall studs is a straightforward carpentry task that most confident DIYers can tackle in an existing wall, provided the work doesn't involve structural changes or restricted trades. Noggings (also called dwangs in some parts of NZ) are horizontal timber members fixed between studs to add rigidity, reduce bowing, and give you a solid fixing point for heavy items like grab rails, shelving brackets, TV mounts, or bathroom accessories.
What Are Noggings and Why Do They Matter?
Noggings are short horizontal timbers fitted between vertical wall studs. In NZ timber-framed construction — governed by NZS 3604:2011 (Timber-framed buildings) — noggings serve several purposes:
- Bracing: They reduce lateral racking in the wall frame.
- Fixing support: They give you a solid anchor point for heavy wall-mounted items.
- Stud stability: They prevent studs from twisting or bowing over time.
- Lining support: They back the edges of sheet linings such as GIB plasterboard where sheets meet mid-wall.
For new framing, NZS 3604 specifies nogging spacing and placement requirements — always check with your local council if you're doing structural framing work.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Stud finder (or a strong magnet to locate nails)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Speed square or combination square
- Circular saw or drop saw
- Hammer and 90 mm framing nails (or a nail gun)
- Drill/driver and 75–90 mm structural screws (as an alternative fixing)
- Pry bar (if opening existing wall lining)
- Safety glasses and hearing protection
Timber: Use seasoned 90 × 45 mm framing timber (H1.2 treated for interior use is standard). Match the existing stud size in your wall — most NZ homes use 90 × 45 mm.
Step 1 — Locate Your Studs
Use a stud finder or tap the wall and listen for a solid sound. Standard stud spacing in NZ is 600 mm centres (some older homes use 400 mm). Mark each stud clearly with a pencil line from floor to ceiling so you know exactly where to work.
Step 2 — Plan Your Nogging Height
Decide where you need the nogging based on what you're fixing:
| Application | Suggested nogging height |
|---|---|
| Grab rail (bathroom) | 800–900 mm from floor |
| Towel rail | 900–1100 mm from floor |
| TV wall mount | Measure to your TV bracket centre |
| Shelf brackets | At your desired shelf height |
| Mid-wall stud bracing | Typically 1350 mm from floor (mid-height) |
For Healthy Homes compliance in rental properties, grab rails must meet specific load requirements — check Tenancy Services for details.
Step 3 — Access the Wall Cavity
In new or open framing (e.g., during a renovation before lining goes on): simply measure, cut, and nail the noggings directly between studs — this is the easiest scenario.
In an existing lined wall: You'll need to cut an access strip in the plasterboard or lining. Score and cut carefully with a utility knife or oscillating multi-tool, keeping cuts centred on the studs so you have something to re-fix the lining to. Keep the offcut if possible — you can reuse it as a patch.
Step 4 — Measure and Cut the Nogging
Measure the clear distance between the inside faces of the two studs. Cut your nogging timber to this exact length using a drop saw or circular saw. A clean, square cut is important for a tight fit and solid fixing.
Step 5 — Fix the Nogging in Place
There are two common methods:
Skew (toenail) nailing
Hold the nogging at your marked height and drive 90 mm framing nails at roughly 45° through the nogging into the stud face on each end. Use at least two nails per end, alternating angles to prevent splitting.
Screw fixing
For better holding power (especially in retrofit situations), use 75–90 mm structural screws driven at an angle through the nogging into the stud. Pre-drill to avoid splitting.
Tip: If you're fitting multiple noggings in a row across several stud bays, stagger them slightly (offset by 20–30 mm) so you can face-nail through the stud into the nogging end — this is the strongest fixing method and avoids the need to skew-nail.
Step 6 — Check and Patch
Once noggings are fixed, check they're level (use a spirit level) and flush with the stud faces so your wall lining sits flat. Patch any plasterboard you removed using GIB offcuts, stopping compound, and tape. Sand smooth once dry, then repaint with a quality interior paint from Resene or Dulux to match your existing wall.
Does This Work Require a Building Consent?
Adding noggings to an existing non-structural wall for fixing purposes is generally exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004. However, if you're modifying structural walls, bracing elements, or doing significant framing work, consent may be required. Always confirm with your local council before starting — requirements can vary. See MBIE Building Performance for guidance on consent exemptions.
When to Call a Professional
Call a qualified carpenter or Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP) if:
- You're unsure whether the wall is load-bearing or structural.
- The work involves removing or modifying existing framing significantly.
- You need noggings as part of a larger renovation or consent-required project.
- You're not confident cutting into existing wall linings without causing damage.
Important: If your nogging work requires moving or adding electrical wiring (e.g., to relocate a cable that's in the way), this is restricted electrical work and must be carried out by a registered electrician — see EWRB. Similarly, any plumbing in the wall must be handled by a licensed plumber registered with the PGDB.
You can find qualified local carpenters and LBPs on tradedirectory.co.nz.