Chalk and matte furniture finishes are hugely popular right now — and for good reason. They give old or tired pieces a beautiful, velvety look that suits everything from coastal baches to heritage villas. The good news is this is a very achievable DIY project, even for beginners, as long as you follow the right steps.
What Is a Chalk or Matte Finish?
A chalk finish (sometimes called chalk paint or mineral paint) is a flat, ultra-matte coating that gives furniture a soft, almost powdery appearance. It's different from standard flat wall paint — chalk-style furniture paints are formulated to adhere to most surfaces with minimal prep, and they're typically topcoated with wax or a matte sealer to protect the finish. A matte finish more broadly refers to any low-sheen topcoat (usually a sheen level of 0–10%) applied to furniture.
Choosing the Right Paint
For a true chalk-style result, look for products specifically designed for furniture:
- Resene Chalk – a popular NZ option available through Resene ColorShops, offering a genuine chalk-paint texture in a wide range of colours.
- Dulux Renovation Range – includes furniture-specific products with low sheen options suited to upcycling projects.
- Wattyl – offers interior enamels that can be tinted to flat/matte sheens for furniture use.
- DIY chalk paint – you can mix flat latex paint with a small amount of unsanded tile grout or baking soda to create a chalk-like texture, though results vary.
Always check the tin label — you want a product rated for furniture or trim use, not just walls, as furniture surfaces take more wear and need better adhesion.
Preparing Your Furniture
Good prep is the difference between a finish that lasts and one that chips within weeks.
Clean thoroughly
Wipe down the piece with a sugar soap solution to remove grease, wax, and grime. Rinse and allow to dry fully — this is especially important in New Zealand's humid regions like Auckland or the West Coast.
Sand lightly
For most chalk-style paints, a light scuff with 120–180 grit sandpaper is enough to give the surface some tooth. You don't need to strip back to bare timber unless the existing finish is flaking or peeling.
Fill and repair
Use a suitable wood filler for any dents or holes. Sand flush once dry.
Prime if needed
If you're painting over a dark colour, a stained surface, or bare MDF, apply a shellac-based or water-based primer first to prevent bleed-through and improve adhesion.
Applying the Chalk or Matte Paint
- Use a good-quality brush (a flat or oval brush works well for chalk paint) or a small foam roller for a smoother result.
- Apply in thin, even coats — chalk paint dries quickly, so don't overwork it.
- Two coats are usually sufficient. Allow each coat to dry fully before recoating (check the tin for recoat times, typically 1–2 hours).
- Distressing (optional): If you want a vintage or shabby-chic look, lightly sand edges and raised details with fine sandpaper (220 grit) between coats or after the final coat.
Sealing and Protecting the Finish
Chalk and matte finishes are porous and will mark easily if left unsealed. You have two main options:
| Topcoat Option | Sheen Level | Durability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Furniture wax | Dead flat | Moderate | Decorative pieces, low-traffic items |
| Matte water-based varnish | Flat to satin | High | Tables, chairs, kids' furniture |
| Matte polycrylic | Flat | High | High-use surfaces |
Wax is the traditional choice for chalk paint. Apply with a lint-free cloth or wax brush, working it into the surface in circular motions, then buff off with a clean cloth. Reapply wax every year or so on pieces that get regular use.
For furniture that takes a beating — dining tables, kids' chairs — a matte water-based polyurethane or varnish will hold up much better than wax.
Colour Selection Tips
Neutral tones — whites, soft greys, sage greens, and dusty blues — are classic chalk-finish colours. Visit a Resene ColorShop to grab test pots and try colours on a piece of cardboard first. Colours can look very different in NZ's bright natural light compared to the tin.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping the clean – paint won't stick to greasy or waxy surfaces.
- Thick coats – these lead to brush marks and slow drying.
- Not sealing – unsealed chalk paint will absorb moisture and stain easily.
- Using wall paint – standard flat wall paint isn't formulated for the wear furniture receives.
When to Call a Professional
For most furniture painting projects, a confident DIYer can achieve great results. However, consider hiring a professional painter if:
- You're refinishing valuable antiques where mistakes could be costly.
- You want a spray-applied ultra-smooth matte finish (spray equipment and technique take practice).
- You're working with lead paint on older furniture (pre-1980s pieces may contain lead — check with WorkSafe NZ guidelines before sanding).
A qualified painter can also advise on the best products for your specific piece and conditions. Find a local professional painter on tradedirectory.co.nz.